Wildcat Peak and Razorback Peak in Organ Mountains-Desert Peaks National Monument, NM

Hike Wildcat Peak and Razorback Peak Organ Mountains-Desert Peaks National Monument, NM

Class 4 7.2 miles 3400 gain 4-6 hrs Out + Back Oct 16, 2018
Effort
Beauty
Personality
Solitude

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My first attempt at Wildcat Peak was a failed one and returned about a year later (2019-11-17) with some new friends and we did Dingleberry Peak and then Wildcat Peak, tacking on Razorback Peak.

The road where we parked is in designated wilderness, so park where I marked the trailhead and just walk along the rocky road even if your car could make it. The road eventually leads to the Organ Mountains Modoc Mine, which we didn't take a detour to explore. The road will begin to cross over a gully before winding up the hills, but you should see a hump begin to form on the left, locally called "Wholt's Welt" (described by R. L. Ingraham in his guide to the Organ Mountains). It's hard to find the social trail leading onto Wholt's Welt, but if you stay near the crest, you should pick up the well-cairned, though still cactus-filled, route up to the base of Wildcat Gully. From the top of Wholt's Welt, hug the cliff face to get into Wildcat Gully (don't enter the gully prematurely like I did on my first attempt or you'll be bushwhacking on all sorts of awful things)  My advice on ascending the gully from here is to keep left at any junctions with other potential side-gullies, staying within the rocky path where water would flow. Deviating from the watercourse resulted in awful bushwhacking, even though they initially seemed like they might work. Eventually, you'll get to a spot below a massive rock pinnacle feature called "The Swale", where you climb a short rock rib (easy Class 3). At the top of this rock rib, you can see another canyon/gully to the north of Wildcat Gully on the left, and Wildcat Gully continuing up on the right. Continue up Wildcat Gully.

On my first try, this is where I stopped because the rock was too wet to attempt the Class 3/4 stuff to the north to gain the summit. You'll notice my photos change below to show bright skies past this point. Anyway, there are really two routes to the summit as you near the top of Wildcat Gully. The first is a section of Class 3/4 just before reaching the saddle between Wildcat and Dingleberry on the ridge crest. This Class 3/4 route has good rock, but with particularly thoughtful moves. It will appear to be the only reasonable ascent out of Wildcat Gully since everything else is vertical-looking. The second option is to continue to the saddle of Wildcat and Dingleberry and drop down on the northeast side, then head up a Class 2 gully. The second option sucked. It was full of rude plants, but I'd recommended it as a descent route since the Class 3/4 ascent was a bit on the exposed side. Both options meet just east of Wildcat Peak's summit in a flatter area. From here, a Class 3 chockstone obstacle brought us up to just some Class 2/3 to the summit, and the views are absolutely wonderful.

From the summit of Wildcat Peak, Marta noted Razorback Peak just to the north, suggesting Kevin and I go for the 4th class summit. A Class 3 downclimb led to the saddle, and then a steep ramp led to the summit of Razorback Peak. It's a minor bump, but the Class 4 moves were really nice, though a bit too exposed for my taste. I had to take a few deep breaths while Kevin had no problems.

PEAKS ON HIKE
Elevation (ft) / Prominence (ft)
Peaks on hike
Elevation
Prominence
1
Wildcat
8500 ft
100 rise
2
Razorback
8300 ft
50 rise

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Starting up the rocky road - you can see the diagonal green slash leading up to the notch just south of Wildcat Peak.
Starting up the rocky road - you can see the diagonal green slash leading up to the notch just south of Wildcat Peak.
Image 1 from gallery
Image 2 from gallery
Leave the rocky road and head up a ridgeline (Wholt's Welt). I couldn't find the start to the social trail, but eventually stumbled on some cairns marking the route up Wholt's Welt.
Leave the rocky road and head up a ridgeline (Wholt's Welt). I couldn't find the start to the social trail, but eventually stumbled on some cairns marking the route up Wholt's Welt.
Image 4 from gallery
Approaching Wildcat Gully, toward the top of Wholt's Welt.
Approaching Wildcat Gully, toward the top of Wholt's Welt.
Entering Wildcat Gully (left).
Entering Wildcat Gully (left).
Image 7 from gallery
Keep right of all this green crap along the rocks.
Keep right of all this green crap along the rocks.
Looking back down toward Wholt's Welt (hump in the middle).
Looking back down toward Wholt's Welt (hump in the middle).
Continuing up Wildcat Gully.
Continuing up Wildcat Gully.
Image 11 from gallery
Image 12 from gallery
Image 13 from gallery
Image 14 from gallery
Image 15 from gallery
Image 16 from gallery
Approaching the saddle with "The Swale". "The Swale" is the rock formation on the left in this photo, and you're headed to the right of the center rock formation.
Approaching the saddle with "The Swale". "The Swale" is the rock formation on the left in this photo, and you're headed to the right of the center rock formation.
Just past the saddle with "The Swale" - I came up the notch on the left in this photo. "The Swale" is the obvious pinnacle here.
Just past the saddle with "The Swale" - I came up the notch on the left in this photo. "The Swale" is the obvious pinnacle here.
Continue up the gully past "The Swale".
Continue up the gully past "The Swale".
Looking down toward "The Swale". On my first ascent attempt, this is approximately where I turned back because the scrambling got slick and scary.
Looking down toward "The Swale". On my first ascent attempt, this is approximately where I turned back because the scrambling got slick and scary.
Successful (second) attempt, basically where I left off previously. Here's looking back toward "The Swale", just before the Class 3/4 section.
Successful (second) attempt, basically where I left off previously. Here's looking back toward "The Swale", just before the Class 3/4 section.
Class 3/4 section, up the weakness in the center.
Class 3/4 section, up the weakness in the center.
Class 3/4 moves.
Class 3/4 moves.
Looking back down at the Class 3/4 stuff, a final heady move behind me.
Looking back down at the Class 3/4 stuff, a final heady move behind me.
After the first set of Class 3/4, we encountered the chockstone visible in the center, another move, but with no exposure.
After the first set of Class 3/4, we encountered the chockstone visible in the center, another move, but with no exposure.
After the chockstone, a final bit of scrambling to gain Wildcat Peak's summit (visible top left).
After the chockstone, a final bit of scrambling to gain Wildcat Peak's summit (visible top left).
Wildcat Peak, view south toward Dingleberry Peak.
Wildcat Peak, view south toward Dingleberry Peak.
Marta on the summit of Wildcat Peak, view south toward Rabbit Ears. Razorback in the foreground.
Marta on the summit of Wildcat Peak, view south toward Rabbit Ears. Razorback in the foreground.
Close-up of Razorback, the Class 4 route is to the left of the massive boulders.
Close-up of Razorback, the Class 4 route is to the left of the massive boulders.
Kevin coming down the Class 3 descent from Wildcat.
Kevin coming down the Class 3 descent from Wildcat.
Kevin about to start the Class 4 ascent to Razorback.
Kevin about to start the Class 4 ascent to Razorback.
Omg Razorback. The route follows the grasses in the center of the photo, then continues along the crack just right of center leading up to where Kevin is.
Omg Razorback. The route follows the grasses in the center of the photo, then continues along the crack just right of center leading up to where Kevin is.
Looking down toward Kevin as he ascends Razorback.
Looking down toward Kevin as he ascends Razorback.
Razorback Peak summit, view north toward Rabbit Ears.
Razorback Peak summit, view north toward Rabbit Ears.
First ascent attempt. Back down after descending, looking back. This is a view of some ocotillos and Wildcat Peak behind them.
First ascent attempt. Back down after descending, looking back. This is a view of some ocotillos and Wildcat Peak behind them.
First ascent attempt.
First ascent attempt.
First ascent attempt: Looking back toward the Organ Mountains on the way back to my car.
First ascent attempt: Looking back toward the Organ Mountains on the way back to my car.

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Hire/refer me as a web developer or send me a few bucks if you find my site useful. I’m not sponsored, so all fees are out-of-pocket and my time preparing trip reports is unpaid. I really appreciate it!