V3, Ulysses S Grant Peak, V4, V2 via Swamp Canyon Trail in San Juan National Forest, CO

Hike V3, Ulysses S Grant Peak, V4, V2 via Swamp Canyon Trail San Juan National Forest, CO

Class 4 14.1 miles 8100 gain 11-15 hrs Out + Back Aug 7, 2020
Effort
Beauty
Personality
Solitude

V3, Ulysses S Grant Peak, V4, V2 via Swamp Canyon Trail GPX Track

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Excited to meet up for some butt-kicking and nonstop giggling with Whiley, I committed to this somewhat contrived route to get four Colorado 13ers near Ice Lake Basin, the most well-known of them being Ulysses S Grant Peak. Most people approach US Grant via the Ice Lake Trail, but Whiley was set on also hiking V3 (another 13er), which is best approached from the north. So, we decided to do this route starting from the Swamp Canyon Trail in order to bag V3. Overall, it was a great route and definitely the most efficient way to hike all four of the 13ers we did.

The trail starts off on a dirt road, passes a gate, crosses a couple of steams, and continues on a road converted to trail. There is an easy-to-miss junction along the road to get onto the Swamp Canyon Trail on the right, which I marked on the attached map. Once on this trail, we continued past any lesser social trail junctions by going straight, and soon were above treeline. V3 would be our first peak of the day – we had very little information on the peak, and knew it would likely be the hardest and least pleasant undertaking of the four we had planned. At a certain point as the trail passed by the basin to the north of V3, we left the trail and headed into the trees. Continuing into the basin, we passed through some light marsh and minimal bushwhacking and up talus and grassy slopes to the saddle that lies north of V3. From here, a lot more talus than we were expected led south, interrupted only for a short time by a grassy slope reprieve before continuing onto more talus and eventually lots of serious scree. This scree is notable because it's the kind that forces you to take two steps up only to slide you one step back, and it lasts for a several hundred feet of vertical gain. We made our way to a gully ahead. It will be tempting to go to a more open and blatant notch on the ridge, which isn't correct. The gully is to the right of that notch and would give us access the summit. Some light Class 3 on the steep slope before the gully forced Whiley and I to ascend apart from one another to prevent kicking rocks. As soon as we were in the gully, we took turns ascending. It's narrow and extremely loose, though not particularly difficult (Class 3). Here is where we messed up on the ascent: it will be very temping to ascend on the more solid-looking rocks on the right. At first, this is more pleasant and we gained a fair amount of progress until we got to an extraordinarily steep, loose, dangerous slope (Class 4) that had me shaking with fear. I wasn't happy. Instead, I recommend staying in the dirty, loose gully the entire way (Class 3+ due to steepness). It's not fun, but using this route I'd say is the best option. Once near the top of this gully, the dirt continues to be loose, and gains in steepness to reach the summit ridge. The summit ridge goes at Class 2, wrapping around a rock outcropping on the left before reaching the V3 summit. We didn't stay long – I was stressed from our poor ascent choice, and Whiley was stressed because I was stressed. It would be great to be able to traverse to US Grant from here (since it appears to be so damn close), but the traverse is incredibly hard and scary, if not impossible. We didn't even entertain the idea, instead dropping back the way we came and returning the same way to the Swamp Canyon Trail.

The Swamp Canyon Trail continued to be pleasant as it ascended toward Swamp Pass. Once the pass came into view, I laughed. It looked very steep. However, as we got closer we noted a series of switchbacks that made the ascent more pleasant. Whiley observed that the insane dryness Colorado has had might be the reason we were encountering so much loose and unpleasant stuff today. Maybe the slopes would be a bit less awful after it rains. Anyway, once we got to Swamp Pass (Class 2), we were greeted by lovely views of Island Lake below. An obvious trail led to the right before descending to the lake. We wrapped around Island Lake's south side until the trail ended and continued toward the obvious saddle separating V4 and US Grant. It's Class 2 at most, the grassy slope turning to talus as we got higher.

At the saddle, we decided to hike US Grant first, since Whiley would have murdered everyone in sight (lolz me) if she didn't get to bag this peak finally. So, up the ridge we went, a very heavily-used social trail making the route-finding pretty much a no-brainer. I should note that on the way back, make sure to keep to the ridge since social trails do lead off the wrong way. The trail brought us along a short and narrow ridge with a small notch between two hoodoos at its end, followed by a 15-foot Class 4 headwall. While the exposure here is minimal and the rock was the most solid stuff I'd seen yet in the San Juan Mountains, take your time because it's definitely Class 4 and will also require you to climb back down later. Once at the top of the headwall, a particularly interesting traverse along an exposed ledge continues on the right. It looks much scarier in the photos than it was, but take care since there is a fair amount of exposure. It's Class 2+, but don't fall. The ledge wraps around for about 30 feet before a Class 2 gully on interesting rock leads to the summit ridge. Some more Class 2 and we were on US Grant's beautiful summit. I loved this peak.

On the way down from US Grant, we stared at V4, hoping to come up with a possible route. We had no information on how to ascend this guy, and the loose and treacherous-looking cliffs were almost enough for me to skip it, especially since I was pretty much over sketchy loose crap after V3 earlier today. We were particularly scared of a bright red, extremely steep-looking gully on the peak's north side that we ended up not even using. From the US Grant/V4 saddle, we followed a light social trail along the talus/scree slope, gaining minimal elevation until it reached a less-steep section of slope. From this slope, we ascended south on somewhat steep Class 2 rock along a social trail that hugs the cliffs on the left before reaching V4's east ridge. The trail continues, and while steep at a couple of sections, has minimal exposure and maximum views toward Ice Lake below. There seem to be two possible summits, the first likely taller. Both are accessed on the south side of V4 using a Class 3 couple of fun moves on solid rock. We descended V4 the same way we ascended, continued past Island Lake, and back up to Swamp Pass.

The quick excursion to V2 before we would head back along the Swamp Canyon Trail was a perfect ending to the day. In fact, the peaks seemed to increase in beauty and decrease in difficulty as the day progressed. V2 requires following a social trail to its true summit (very low Class 2), but continuing along the ridge farther is worth the minor extra effort (Class 2). The ridge becomes narrow and has nice views north toward Clear Lake, and back toward US Grant. We returned the way we came, quite happy.

PEAKS ON HIKE
Elevation (ft) / Prominence (ft)
Peaks on hike
Elevation
Prominence
1
V 3
13528 ft
368 rise
2
U S Grant Peak
13767 ft
727 rise
3
V 4
13520 ft
280 rise
4
V 2
13309 ft
389 rise

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Starting along the Swamp Canyon Trail (road on the left).
Starting along the Swamp Canyon Trail (road on the left).
About to cross a creek just past that gate ahead.
About to cross a creek just past that gate ahead.
Along the Swamp Canyon Trail, leaving the dirt road (left) at an easy-to-miss junction.
Along the Swamp Canyon Trail, leaving the dirt road (left) at an easy-to-miss junction.
Along the Swamp Canyon Trail. V3 on the right up there somewhere, the cliffs of US Grant in the center. Swamp Canyon Trail continues later up the valley on the left.
Along the Swamp Canyon Trail. V3 on the right up there somewhere, the cliffs of US Grant in the center. Swamp Canyon Trail continues later up the valley on the left.
Looking back along the Swamp Canyon Trail shortly before leaving it to head up to V3.
Looking back along the Swamp Canyon Trail shortly before leaving it to head up to V3.
The minor bushwhack after leaving the Swamp Canyon Trail. You can see the saddle on the north side of V3 ahead, center.
The minor bushwhack after leaving the Swamp Canyon Trail. You can see the saddle on the north side of V3 ahead, center.
Looking back as we ascend to the saddle.
Looking back as we ascend to the saddle.
Class 2 talus, almost at the saddle.
Class 2 talus, almost at the saddle.
At the saddle, continuing south toward V3.
At the saddle, continuing south toward V3.
Looking back toward the saddle and back the way we came (right). The Swamp Canyon Trail is on the top right somewhere.
Looking back toward the saddle and back the way we came (right). The Swamp Canyon Trail is on the top right somewhere.
Still talus before becoming awful scree. It will be very tempting to head to the wide notch in the center of this photo, but the true route heads just right of Whiley's head to a lesser, narrow gully at the top of the scree.
Still talus before becoming awful scree. It will be very tempting to head to the wide notch in the center of this photo, but the true route heads just right of Whiley's head to a lesser, narrow gully at the top of the scree.
Looking down as we ascend the scree. You can see the saddle we came from below on the left.
Looking down as we ascend the scree. You can see the saddle we came from below on the left.
Close-up at Whiley on the crap scree, looking back toward the saddle.
Close-up at Whiley on the crap scree, looking back toward the saddle.
At the gully.
At the gully.
Looking down the gully.
Looking down the gully.
Here's the spot we messed up. We went up the rocks in the center since they are more solid, but I definitely recommend keeping to the left up the dirt gully. It's not fun, but much safer.
Here's the spot we messed up. We went up the rocks in the center since they are more solid, but I definitely recommend keeping to the left up the dirt gully. It's not fun, but much safer.
Close-up of Whiley in the dirt gully. She's facing the wrong way because I took this photo on the way down, oops.
Close-up of Whiley in the dirt gully. She's facing the wrong way because I took this photo on the way down, oops.
Continuing up the awful Class 3+ gully.
Continuing up the awful Class 3+ gully.
At the top of the steep, loose gully.
At the top of the steep, loose gully.
Continuing up to V3 along the ridge. Keep left of the rock outcropping ahead to keep the rest of the route Class 2.
Continuing up to V3 along the ridge. Keep left of the rock outcropping ahead to keep the rest of the route Class 2.
V3 summit, view toward the Vermilion group.
V3 summit, view toward the Vermilion group.
V3 summit, view toward US Grant. It's so close, but that ridgeline is laughably scary-looking.
V3 summit, view toward US Grant. It's so close, but that ridgeline is laughably scary-looking.
Whiley at the summit of V3.
Whiley at the summit of V3.
Back on the Swamp Canyon Trail, headed south toward Swamp Pass.
Back on the Swamp Canyon Trail, headed south toward Swamp Pass.
Image 24 from gallery
Image 25 from gallery
Looking back just before reaching Swamp Pass.
Looking back just before reaching Swamp Pass.
Swamp Pass. To access, ascend the lighter-colored orange slope. It's steep, but less bad than it looks from far away.
Swamp Pass. To access, ascend the lighter-colored orange slope. It's steep, but less bad than it looks from far away.
Ascending to Swamp Pass. Switchbacks were available to aid in ascending.
Ascending to Swamp Pass. Switchbacks were available to aid in ascending.
Looking down just below Swamp Pass, back the way we came.
Looking down just below Swamp Pass, back the way we came.
Swamp Pass, view toward Island Lake. We descended a very nice trail down to the lake.
Swamp Pass, view toward Island Lake. We descended a very nice trail down to the lake.
On the south side of Island Lake as we hiked around its perimeter, view toward US Grant (right) and V4 (left). Our route ascends to the saddle of the two. Starting from here is the standard S Grant route. There were lots of people around Island Lake, all of whom I somehow managed to avoid in photos.
On the south side of Island Lake as we hiked around its perimeter, view toward US Grant (right) and V4 (left). Our route ascends to the saddle of the two. Starting from here is the standard S Grant route. There were lots of people around Island Lake, all of whom I somehow managed to avoid in photos.
Image 32 from gallery
Looking back toward Island Lake after the trail ended and we began ascending to the US Grant/V4 saddle.
Looking back toward Island Lake after the trail ended and we began ascending to the US Grant/V4 saddle.
Continuing to the saddle.
Continuing to the saddle.
Grassy slope turns into V2 talus.
Grassy slope turns into V2 talus.
US Grant/V4 saddle, view back toward Island Lake.
US Grant/V4 saddle, view back toward Island Lake.
First up, US Grant Peak.
First up, US Grant Peak.
Looking back toward the saddle and V4.
Looking back toward the saddle and V4.
Social trail leading up US Grant was in great shape.
Social trail leading up US Grant was in great shape.
Class 2.
Class 2.
Looking back toward V4.
Looking back toward V4.
Approaching the classic Ulysses S Grant scramble. Whiley is heading across the short ridge and through the little rock hoodos.
Approaching the classic Ulysses S Grant scramble. Whiley is heading across the short ridge and through the little rock hoodos.
Whiley starting up the Class 4 headwall.
Whiley starting up the Class 4 headwall.
Looking down at Whiley on the Class 4 headwall.
Looking down at Whiley on the Class 4 headwall.
Starting along the exposed Class 2+ ledges.
Starting along the exposed Class 2+ ledges.
Looking back at Whiley on the ledges, a Class 2+ spot. Exposed, but not difficult. You can see the small ridge and hoodoos we just went through in the center. She's facing the wrong way again because I took this photo on the way back ;)
Looking back at Whiley on the ledges, a Class 2+ spot. Exposed, but not difficult. You can see the small ridge and hoodoos we just went through in the center. She's facing the wrong way again because I took this photo on the way back ;)
After the ledges wrapped around the peak for a bit, we entered this lovely gully.
After the ledges wrapped around the peak for a bit, we entered this lovely gully.
Class 2 up the gully with interesting rock.
Class 2 up the gully with interesting rock.
US Grant ridgeline.
US Grant ridgeline.
US Grant summit, view toward V3. We were there earlier! So much effort for so little distance.
US Grant summit, view toward V3. We were there earlier! So much effort for so little distance.
Looking toward V4 on our way down from US Grant. Our route will start at the saddle, head along the somewhat visible social trail to the gravely-looking less-steep slope in the center of the photo, before we would use that slope to ascend to the ridge.
Looking toward V4 on our way down from US Grant. Our route will start at the saddle, head along the somewhat visible social trail to the gravely-looking less-steep slope in the center of the photo, before we would use that slope to ascend to the ridge.
Back at the saddle and heading along the social trail toward V4.
Back at the saddle and heading along the social trail toward V4.
At the less-steep section, heading up the previously-pictured gravely-looking spot to get to the V4 ridgeline.
At the less-steep section, heading up the previously-pictured gravely-looking spot to get to the V4 ridgeline.
Looking back toward US Grant and the US Grant/V4 saddle.
Looking back toward US Grant and the US Grant/V4 saddle.
Almost on the V4 ridgeline. The route wraps around the ridge and keeps to the south of some rocky crap.
Almost on the V4 ridgeline. The route wraps around the ridge and keeps to the south of some rocky crap.
We passed over the ridge at the top of the shadowy stuff in this photo, now on the south side of V4's ridge.
We passed over the ridge at the top of the shadowy stuff in this photo, now on the south side of V4's ridge.
Class 2/3 along the V4 ridge to the summits.
Class 2/3 along the V4 ridge to the summits.
Whiley ascending V4, Ice Lake visible below.
Whiley ascending V4, Ice Lake visible below.
One of the two V4 peak Class 3 summit blocks. I'm not sure which was higher, but both scrambles are similar to this.
One of the two V4 peak Class 3 summit blocks. I'm not sure which was higher, but both scrambles are similar to this.
V4 summit, view toward Pilot Knob and Golden Horn, the Wilsons group out there on the right.
V4 summit, view toward Pilot Knob and Golden Horn, the Wilsons group out there on the right.
Close-up toward Ice Lake.
Close-up toward Ice Lake.
Back at Island Lake, heading back to Swamp Pass (visible top center). What's a little more vertical gain? Ha.
Back at Island Lake, heading back to Swamp Pass (visible top center). What's a little more vertical gain? Ha.
From Swamp Pass, continuing toward V2. South Lookout Peak visible on the left. That's a peak for another day.
From Swamp Pass, continuing toward V2. South Lookout Peak visible on the left. That's a peak for another day.
Looking back toward Island Lake, US Grant, and V4.
Looking back toward Island Lake, US Grant, and V4.
V2 summit.
V2 summit.
Continuing along V2's ridgeline to get nice views of Clear Lake to the north.
Continuing along V2's ridgeline to get nice views of Clear Lake to the north.
V2 summit, view toward Island Lake and Ice Lake peeking out in the center. V4 top right.
V2 summit, view toward Island Lake and Ice Lake peeking out in the center. V4 top right.
Whiley on the V2 ridge before we headed back along the Swamp Canyon Trail.
Whiley on the V2 ridge before we headed back along the Swamp Canyon Trail.

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