Twilight Peaks Traverse and West Needle Mountain in San Juan National Forest, CO

Hike Twilight Peaks Traverse and West Needle Mountain San Juan National Forest, CO

Class 3 18.5 miles 6300 gain 11-15 hrs Out + Back Aug 22, 2020
Effort
Beauty
Personality
Solitude

Twilight Peaks Traverse and West Needle Mountain GPX Track

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The Twilight group of Colorado 13ers is a fairly remote few peaks that, until this outing, seemed to be an unattainable undertaking that I'd get to "one day". I'd seen them many times from surrounding peaks, thinking they were inaccessible, based on the lack of information on how to approach them. Additionally, their isolation, the name "Twilights", and their cliffy appearance somehow just added to their adventurous-feeling vibe. The eight of us started out from the Andrews Lake Trailhead, and I highly recommend not having a group this large. The route is loose and steep and we had a couple of close calls with rocks getting kicked off. Regardless, having a bunch of friends to talk to on the long approach to Crater Lake was nice. The trail is in great shape, and pretty popular. It undulates more than I thought, a fact I observed more on the way back when I was ready to be back to the car and the noms it offered.

Once at Crater Lake, we took in the morning light on North Twilight Peak before continuing on a trail on the east side of the lake. The trail gained some grassy slopes, passed a cute tarn, and headed south into wide views of the South Twilight Peak and the massive Animas River Valley to the east. The trail faded and soon disappeared, leaving us to traverse a boulder field that would consume a fair amount of our time. The route involves descending a few hundred feet to avoid garbage side-hilling and cliffs before reascending on increasingly steep talus to the saddle southeast of South Twilight Peak. As we neared the saddle, the talus faded into steep grass, and the views back the way we came were impressive, the Class 2 we had gotten through all visible.

Once at the saddle southeast of South Twilight Peak, we took in the views of an unnamed lake below and of West Needle Mountain to the south. Our plan was to hit Peak 12932 before continuing onward to West Needle Mountain, then return to the saddle we were currently on. From the saddle, we scrambled up a small gully on our right (Class 2+) and traversed below the cliffy base of an unnamed point along the ridge (Class 2). This led to the saddle of the unnamed point and Peak 12932. It required minimal route-finding to get here. We then made the mistake of ascending Peak 12932's northwest ridge. It appeared to be Class 2, but we were blocked by a notch obstacle a few hundred feet from the summit. I don't recommend going into the notch, although we did separate into four groups to find routes each of us was comfortable with and some of us did drop into it. I would recommend dropping low, staying away from the ridge and bypassing this obstacle completely (I included this bypass on my attached map), reascending on a Class 2 talus slope to gain the summit. We would all ultimately use this slope anyway. However, if you want some adventure, drop into the notch and route-find through the Class 3/4. The route I ended up going with required a small stemming down-climb through the notch, and a re-ascent over a rock rib to get into the aforementioned Class 2 talus slope, which leads to the summit. Once at the summit of Peak 12932, we took its southern ridge. Ben used this as his ascent to the peak, and recommended it as a good descent option. This involved some grassy slopes and casual Class 2 with great views onto a loose Class 2 slope of pure talus, which didn't let up until we reached the base of West Needle Mountain.

From the base of West Needle Mountain's northeast ridge, we headed up steep Class 2 boulders to a notch. Class 2+ grassy slopes mixed in with easily kickable rocks continues up the ridge. Be very, very careful here. There are multiple routes you could take along the ridge, but the first hundred feet or so doesn't offer this flexibility, and we did our best to fan out to avoid rock-kicking. Ascending the ridge, we were able to separate sufficiently, at least three Class 3 options available. It was actually really fun scrambling, and the rock seemed to become less loose as we went. About halfway up, the ridge began to narrow and we were met with some thoughtful sections, where keeping just left of the ridge helped keep the route under Class 4. Additionally, there was a Class 3 set of moves on a steeper section of the ridge that proved a little scary on the way down, the exposure not as apparent on the ascent. The ridge continued to be fun, and we kept just left of the ridge crest as we neared a false summit to avoid some scary-looking rock blocks. Also just below the false summit is a short knife-edge ending with a Class 3+ section, but there's a Class 2 workaroud on the right. The false summit led to a very nice flat section on easy terrain.

Once back to the base of West Needle Mountain, we side-hilled on talus, ascending slowly back to the saddle on the northwest side of Peak 12932, where we backtracked to the South Twilight Peak saddle. A Class 2+ scramble led to South Twilight's summit, and a pleasant traverse mostly free of talus continued to Twilight Peak. Very pretty, but not much to note about this part of the ridgeline.

From Twilight Peak, I took a deep breath, believing the descent from Twilight Peak to its northern saddle would be the crux of the day. It ended up only being Class 3, but did require some route-finding. And it's very loose. In short: Stick to the highest point of the ridge as possible before dropping into a major notch. Long version: Carefully, we started along the ridge, quickly realizing we would have to stay just left of the crest to avoid terrifying exposure on loose rock. A shelf of sorts helped us feel better about the loose rock, but it still required care. To our left was a steep drop and a rocky gully that could possibly be used as a less-optimal descent, but we took the high road. After some slow traversing along the shelf, it will be tempting to drop down to grassy terrain below, but I recommend staying as high up as you can for as long as you can. I don't know if there is even a route below, and the route we took was lovely. Just before descending into the big notch, there was one rock rib in particular where a few from the group dropped to the left (which seemed like the obvious way, and ultimately did work at Class 3+), but simply scrambling over the rib only required Class 2. Finally, as we were as close to the notch as we could be while still at the top of the ridge, we peered down into it, thinking at first there was no way to descend into the notch. Whiley tried for a way to the left off the ridge crest and got cliffed out, and I went to the right and was able to find a Class 2+ somewhat precarious grassy ledge that safely dropped me into the notch. About 100 feet of descending through the notch led to a big boulder. Just after the boulder, we escaped the notch on the right and ascended a grassy slope for 100 feet of vertical. The technical stuff was over. We decended the steep, grassy slope to the saddle of Twilight Peak and North Twilight Peak, where we encountered more talus leading to the summit of North Twilight Peak.

We didn't know of an ideal route down from North Twilight Peak, so our group split into two. We went back down to the saddle of North Twilight and Twilight and descended on talus forever, passed a very pretty tarn, got some really lovely views of the peaks of the Weminuche Wilderness, and then side-hilled on nonsense scree/talus for a while to get back to the trail that would lead back to Crater Lake. Alternatively, and I marked this on my map as the better descent option, you could descend the way the second group did. They headed along the east ridge of North Twilight Peak and reported later that it was mostly a trail with some Class 2. They certainly beat us back to the car. Yep, go that way.

PEAKS ON HIKE
Elevation (ft) / Prominence (ft)
Peaks on hike
Elevation
Prominence
1
Peak 12932
12932 ft
332 rise
2
West Needle Mountain
13062 ft
542 rise
3
South Twilight Peak
13080 ft
160 rise
4
Twilight Peak
13158 ft
2318 rise
5
North Twilight Peak
13075 ft
315 rise

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Sun rising on some tarns shortly after leaving the Andrews Lake Trailhead.
Sun rising on some tarns shortly after leaving the Andrews Lake Trailhead.
Engineer Mountain in the distance as we make our way on the Crater Lake trail.
Engineer Mountain in the distance as we make our way on the Crater Lake trail.
North Twilight Peak comes into view, finally.
North Twilight Peak comes into view, finally.
Looking back, Potato Hill (left) and Engineer Mountain (right) visible in the distance.
Looking back, Potato Hill (left) and Engineer Mountain (right) visible in the distance.
Image 4 from gallery
Approaching Crater Lake. For reference, the better descent route (marked in yellow on attached map) from North Twilight Peak can be seen coming from the center in this photo.
Approaching Crater Lake. For reference, the better descent route (marked in yellow on attached map) from North Twilight Peak can be seen coming from the center in this photo.
Crater Lake, North Twilight Peak behind it.
Crater Lake, North Twilight Peak behind it.
Along the east side of Crater Lake.
Along the east side of Crater Lake.
A pretty tarn with Peak 12932 visible in the background. This would be our first peak of the day, but it was still quite far.
A pretty tarn with Peak 12932 visible in the background. This would be our first peak of the day, but it was still quite far.
Small amount of bushwhacking after the trail disappeared.
Small amount of bushwhacking after the trail disappeared.
Grassy/forest fades into talus. South Twilight Peak is visible on the right, Peak 12932 on the left, and an unnamed point in the center. The saddle we are headed to is the one between South Twilight and the unnamed point. We would first have to drop down almost to the trees visible below before we can ascend the talus slope.
Grassy/forest fades into talus. South Twilight Peak is visible on the right, Peak 12932 on the left, and an unnamed point in the center. The saddle we are headed to is the one between South Twilight and the unnamed point. We would first have to drop down almost to the trees visible below before we can ascend the talus slope.
Below near the previously mentioned trees,  infinite talus. The saddle we are heading for is visible center.
Below near the previously mentioned trees, infinite talus. The saddle we are heading for is visible center.
Looking back at our progress. Our route came from the low spot where Snowdon Peak is poking out in the center.
Looking back at our progress. Our route came from the low spot where Snowdon Peak is poking out in the center.
More talus on the ascent.
More talus on the ascent.
Looking back again at our progress.
Looking back again at our progress.
Lots of big talus at one point.
Lots of big talus at one point.
Getting closer to the saddle, left of center. South Twilight Peak is on the right out of frame.
Getting closer to the saddle, left of center. South Twilight Peak is on the right out of frame.
Looking back the way we came, our route came from the low point on the right of those cool-looking cliffs in the center. You can see the trees we descended to in the center.
Looking back the way we came, our route came from the low point on the right of those cool-looking cliffs in the center. You can see the trees we descended to in the center.
At the saddle between South Twilight Peak and the unnamed point on the ridge. West Needle Mountain visible center, and a pretty unnamed lake below it. After doing West Needle Mountain, we would backtrack to this spot. On the top left, you can see Lorenzo. I would say ascending the gully on the left is the best Class 2 option to get over to Peak 12932.
At the saddle between South Twilight Peak and the unnamed point on the ridge. West Needle Mountain visible center, and a pretty unnamed lake below it. After doing West Needle Mountain, we would backtrack to this spot. On the top left, you can see Lorenzo. I would say ascending the gully on the left is the best Class 2 option to get over to Peak 12932.
Traversing beneath the cliffs of the unnamed point. Peak 12932 visible left, West Needle Mountain right.
Traversing beneath the cliffs of the unnamed point. Peak 12932 visible left, West Needle Mountain right.
Looking back as we ascend Peak 12932. You can see the cliffs we traversed beneath just right of center.
Looking back as we ascend Peak 12932. You can see the cliffs we traversed beneath just right of center.
Class 2 for the first bit up to Peak 12932. Shortly after this point, we encountered a notch obstacle. See map for more detail.
Class 2 for the first bit up to Peak 12932. Shortly after this point, we encountered a notch obstacle. See map for more detail.
Whether you do the  Class 3/4 notch option or drop a bit, both route end up ascending this Class 2 talus slope. Peak 12932 is up there somewhere.
Whether you do the Class 3/4 notch option or drop a bit, both route end up ascending this Class 2 talus slope. Peak 12932 is up there somewhere.
Looking down the Class 2 talus slope. West Needle Mountain visible top.
Looking down the Class 2 talus slope. West Needle Mountain visible top.
Summit of Peak 12932.
Summit of Peak 12932.
Heading down the south ridge of Peak 12932. West Needle ahead. You can see the ascent route. Despite how incredibly steep it looks from here, it was only Class 3/3+. The best option is to head for the shadowy section left of center in this photo, as close to the mountain as you can get before starting to the ridge.
Heading down the south ridge of Peak 12932. West Needle ahead. You can see the ascent route. Despite how incredibly steep it looks from here, it was only Class 3/3+. The best option is to head for the shadowy section left of center in this photo, as close to the mountain as you can get before starting to the ridge.
On the way to West Needle Mountain, lots of talus. Follow the shadow line in this photo to see the best spot to start ascending.
On the way to West Needle Mountain, lots of talus. Follow the shadow line in this photo to see the best spot to start ascending.
Class 2+ to get to the ridge before ascending West Needle Mountain.
Class 2+ to get to the ridge before ascending West Needle Mountain.
Looking back at the Class 2 talus. Our route down from Peak 12932 came from the top right somewhere. South Twilight Peak visible on the left.
Looking back at the Class 2 talus. Our route down from Peak 12932 came from the top right somewhere. South Twilight Peak visible on the left.
Class 2/3 u the ridge. Steep and loose.
Class 2/3 u the ridge. Steep and loose.
Looking down toward the ridge we ascended from, and the talus Class 2 that brought us there on the left. It's easy to kick rocks here, so be very careful.
Looking down toward the ridge we ascended from, and the talus Class 2 that brought us there on the left. It's easy to kick rocks here, so be very careful.
Class 2/3 fun. Multiple route options.
Class 2/3 fun. Multiple route options.
Whiley ascending the fun Class 2/3. The ridge we came up from visible bottom left.
Whiley ascending the fun Class 2/3. The ridge we came up from visible bottom left.
Another show looking back at our progress, Peak 12932 top right, South Twilight top left.
Another show looking back at our progress, Peak 12932 top right, South Twilight top left.
Class 2/3 starts to get more tricky a bit over halfway up. The scramble visible right of center in this photo is likely the crux of the route to West Needle Mountain. It required some Class 3.
Class 2/3 starts to get more tricky a bit over halfway up. The scramble visible right of center in this photo is likely the crux of the route to West Needle Mountain. It required some Class 3.
Looking back.
Looking back.
The previously mentioned Class 3 section. It was a bit trickier coming down than going up.
The previously mentioned Class 3 section. It was a bit trickier coming down than going up.
Above Continuing up more fun Class 2/3. Some of us kept to the ridge, while others stayed left to avoid additional scrambling. Both options seemed to work fine.
Above Continuing up more fun Class 2/3. Some of us kept to the ridge, while others stayed left to avoid additional scrambling. Both options seemed to work fine.
Looking back again at our progress. Peak 12932 on the right, South Twilight in shadow on the left, Twilight in sun behind it.
Looking back again at our progress. Peak 12932 on the right, South Twilight in shadow on the left, Twilight in sun behind it.
Approaching a small knife edge ridge. The false summit of West Needle Mountain visible above. Jose is left of center of this photo on a small slab to access the tiny knife edge. Cindy is in the center bypassing the Class 3 ridge by doing a Class 2 workaround.
Approaching a small knife edge ridge. The false summit of West Needle Mountain visible above. Jose is left of center of this photo on a small slab to access the tiny knife edge. Cindy is in the center bypassing the Class 3 ridge by doing a Class 2 workaround.
Close-up of Whiley at the end of the itty knife edge. I feel weird calling it this because it's kind of just a short narrow section of ridge, but whatever. Jose is pulling the Class 3 ridge move. Class 2 workaround on the right. Lorenzo is up top about to reach the false summit.
Close-up of Whiley at the end of the itty knife edge. I feel weird calling it this because it's kind of just a short narrow section of ridge, but whatever. Jose is pulling the Class 3 ridge move. Class 2 workaround on the right. Lorenzo is up top about to reach the false summit.
False summit, headed to the true summit ahead.
False summit, headed to the true summit ahead.
West Needle Mountain, view south.
West Needle Mountain, view south.
West Needle Mountain, view north toward the false summit and the Weimenuche Wilderness in the distance.
West Needle Mountain, view north toward the false summit and the Weimenuche Wilderness in the distance.
After dropping back down from West Needle Mountain, we headed across the slopes (talus, grass) to the saddle on the far right of this photo. We would then retrace our route beneath the unnamed point (right) to get to the saddle just beneath South Twilight Peak (the dome-looking on in the center).
After dropping back down from West Needle Mountain, we headed across the slopes (talus, grass) to the saddle on the far right of this photo. We would then retrace our route beneath the unnamed point (right) to get to the saddle just beneath South Twilight Peak (the dome-looking on in the center).
Traversing the slopes, South Twilight visible on the left.
Traversing the slopes, South Twilight visible on the left.
View back toward West Needle Mountain.
View back toward West Needle Mountain.
After retracing our route, about to drop back to the saddle we left earlier in the day. South Twilight Peak visible ahead.
After retracing our route, about to drop back to the saddle we left earlier in the day. South Twilight Peak visible ahead.
Class 2/3 up to South Twilight.
Class 2/3 up to South Twilight.
Image 49 from gallery
View back the way we came, West Needle Mountain on the right.
View back the way we came, West Needle Mountain on the right.
Continuing from South Twilight along the pleasant ridge to Twilight Peak.
Continuing from South Twilight along the pleasant ridge to Twilight Peak.
Looking back toward South Twilight Peak.
Looking back toward South Twilight Peak.
Twilight Peak summit.
Twilight Peak summit.
After starting down Twilight Peak, we were met with what I consider the crux of the route, mostly because it requires some route-finding. We chose to stay high on the right, but not directly on the scary crest. Going down on the left could work, but I'm not sure.
After starting down Twilight Peak, we were met with what I consider the crux of the route, mostly because it requires some route-finding. We chose to stay high on the right, but not directly on the scary crest. Going down on the left could work, but I'm not sure.
Looking back at a nice ramp/ledge we used to help make the route less scary. We kept just below the ridge crest.
Looking back at a nice ramp/ledge we used to help make the route less scary. We kept just below the ridge crest.
Whiley heading down a Class 3+ option, but keeping on the ridge was Class 2.
Whiley heading down a Class 3+ option, but keeping on the ridge was Class 2.
Looking back as Jose comes down from the ledge system. The ridge crest is just out of frame on the left.
Looking back as Jose comes down from the ledge system. The ridge crest is just out of frame on the left.
The ridge came to a drop that ended in a notch. Keep to the right here to get down to the notch below (at the base of the rock ridge in the center). Whiley was route-finding and didn't have luck the way she's going pictured. The better way goes to the right, which took us on a Class 2+ grassy ledge.
The ridge came to a drop that ended in a notch. Keep to the right here to get down to the notch below (at the base of the rock ridge in the center). Whiley was route-finding and didn't have luck the way she's going pictured. The better way goes to the right, which took us on a Class 2+ grassy ledge.
Within the notch, descending for a bit. The boulder in the center of the notch marks the exit spot.
Within the notch, descending for a bit. The boulder in the center of the notch marks the exit spot.
The escape spot on the right, followed by a bit of ascending on a Class 2 ramp. Potato Hill visible left, Engineer Mountain farther behind it.
The escape spot on the right, followed by a bit of ascending on a Class 2 ramp. Potato Hill visible left, Engineer Mountain farther behind it.
Looking back into the notch as Whiley exits. The ridge we came down from Twilight Peak is visible above.
Looking back into the notch as Whiley exits. The ridge we came down from Twilight Peak is visible above.
After ascending the ramp, we came upon nice grassy terrain. North Twilight Peak visible ahead.
After ascending the ramp, we came upon nice grassy terrain. North Twilight Peak visible ahead.
Looking back as friends come down the grassy slope.
Looking back as friends come down the grassy slope.
North Twilight ahead. Class 2. Note the ridge continuing on the right from the summit: that's the recommended descent route. It looks scary from here, but my friends who went that way reported it was only Class 2, mostly with a trail. I recommend going that way. In the center of this photo is the descent route we chose to take, and where later photos will illustrate.
North Twilight ahead. Class 2. Note the ridge continuing on the right from the summit: that's the recommended descent route. It looks scary from here, but my friends who went that way reported it was only Class 2, mostly with a trail. I recommend going that way. In the center of this photo is the descent route we chose to take, and where later photos will illustrate.
Looking back toward Twilight Peak.
Looking back toward Twilight Peak.
Almost to the summit of North Thunder Peak.
Almost to the summit of North Thunder Peak.
North Thunder Peak summit, view back at the traverse.
North Thunder Peak summit, view back at the traverse.
Our descent route. I recommend going back a few photos and taking the aforementioned ridge instead. This was a pretty route, but it was tedious.
Our descent route. I recommend going back a few photos and taking the aforementioned ridge instead. This was a pretty route, but it was tedious.
Class 2 forever as we descend from the saddle. Gorgeous Weimenuche peaks in the distance.
Class 2 forever as we descend from the saddle. Gorgeous Weimenuche peaks in the distance.
Image 70 from gallery
A beautiful little tarn.
A beautiful little tarn.
Looking back toward the saddle we descended from, Twilight Peak on the left and North Twilight Peak on the right somewhere.
Looking back toward the saddle we descended from, Twilight Peak on the left and North Twilight Peak on the right somewhere.
Image 73 from gallery
Side-hilling talus/scree to get back to the trail that would lead to Crater Lake.
Side-hilling talus/scree to get back to the trail that would lead to Crater Lake.

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