Shelf Canyon, Bighorn Peak, Progeny Peak Loop in Zion National Park, UT

Hike Shelf Canyon, Bighorn Peak, Progeny Peak Loop Zion National Park, UT

Class 3 5.3 miles 2600 gain 3-5 hrs Out + Back May 6, 2023
Effort
Beauty
Personality
Solitude

Shelf Canyon, Bighorn Peak, Progeny Peak Loop GPX Track

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This loop linking Shelf Point, Bighorn Peak, and Progeny Peak on Zion's east side visits a few beautiful viewpoints located near the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel. We actually saw a couple of parties within Upper Pine Creek Canyon, not unexpected since the canyon is used both by canyoneers looking to reach Spry Canyon as well as by hikers using the lightly traveled route to reach Progeny Peak and Two Pines Arch. Otherwise, this exploratory route is a lovely outing in the backcountry of Zion. A short slot canyon along our loop, Shelf Canyon was worth an additional short excursion. We parked where we did to avoid the crowds at the Canyon Overlook Trailhead. It wasn't an issue since this loop passes both trailheads anyway. This just meant starting with a hike up Shelf Canyon before doing any peaks.

We walked along the pavement and located Shelf Canyon on the right. This side quest requires some Class 3 boulder-hopping in order to reach the tight narrows farther in. The canyon ends at a Class 5 chimney, so we turned back here. It's an enjoyable hike through a nontechnical canyon, and having quick access from the road you might see others.

We next set out along our intended loop, which began along the wildly popular Canyon Overlook Trail. This is one of the only official trails on Zion's East Side, and if you're looking at this trip report it's likely you've already done the Canyon Overlook Trail in the past. The trail has been carved into the sandstone cliff face on the north side of Pine Creek Canyon, constructed with handrails, boardwalks, and staircases. Looking down to the left you can see the narrow technical slot of Pine Creek Canyon. The view at the end of the trail is great for first-time Zion visitors, a lookout point toward Bridge MountainThe West Temple, the main Virgin River Canyon, and the road switchbacks leading to the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel.

While most hikers will turn around here, we continued from the end of the trail and headed north toward the base of The East Temple, an undertaking requiring 800+ vertical gain on a steep standstone slab. The slope becomes steeper higher up, and the slickrock seems to just drop off to the left. For this reason I recommend trending slightly to the right as you ascend in order to avoid pretty serious exposure. A couple of Class 3 moves to overcome minor ledges add some spice to the mix, and locating the best option might be puzzling. As it turns out, this is an excellent introduction to Zion backcountry peakbagging, with plenty of slab scrambling and route-finding.

We reached the southeastern shoulder of The East Temple, a point known colloquially as Shelf Point. It's not really a peak, but does offer a near-vertical view down toward Shelf Canyon and the road below. Bighorn Peak lay just to the north, a bit more of an undertaking than it may appear. Bighorn Peak isn't a true peak either, but every bump in Zion is cool enough to be worth visiting, in my opinion. We started down the Class 2 slope from Shelf Point, using a ledge/slope combo along the base of The East Temple's impressive east face. Sporadic chasms and lips forced us to pull a Class 3 move here and there, but soon we were ascending toward Bighorn Peak. Class 2/3 steep sandstone and loose terrain brought us to its summit, which I'd say is most notable for its close-up perspective of The East Temple and Deertrap Mountain.

Continuing north off Bighorn Peak, the sandy terrain became a little more brushy and then ultimately gave way to the bright orange sandstone we all know and love about Zion. Intending to get down into Pine Creek Canyon to the east, we descended in that direction on the steepening slab. We were then confronted with a wide, sloped bowl that Yoshi and I each have scrambled through on multiple occasions. This Class 3 route looked insanely steep to us today for some reason, so we decided to locate a slightly easier option to the south. The standard route heads directly through the bowl, but our option traversed south along a sandy ledge with a social trail, then used a steep Class 2/3 ramp to get into the bowl. I left both of these routes on my attached map, the purple line being easier.

Now that we were in the bowl, our next goal was Progeny Peak, a minor summit we could see on the opposite side of Pine Creek Canyon. On previous occasions we'd both reached the summit via its standard route on the south side of the peak. We decided that would be our descent route later, instead choosing to attempt a route from the peak's north side. Realizing there was a chance of failure, we set out knowing we could return to Upper Pine Creek and get back to the trailhead that way. I left this other option on my map as a purple line. Going this way reduces the mileage and vertical gain, as well as difficulty of the route by a quite a bit.

We found a cairned route we used to leave the slickrock bowl and enter Upper Pine Creek Canyon. We then headed north through the drainage, in search of a weakness on the east side of Upper Pine Creek Canyon. This seemed an unlikely feat, but a high-angle slab soon provided a potential option amongst the otherwise cliffy face. We pulled a Class 3 move to gain the slab, then worked our way up a few Class 3 moves, using ledges to zig-zag up in order to keep the scramble feeling less exposed and dangerous. It was the trickiest part of the hike so far, the route-finding complex and the potential for getting cliffed-out high. After a couple hundred feet of gain in this manner, we found ourselves back on glorious slickrock. Progeny Peak came into view to the east, as did its tricky-looking slabby face we planned to attempt.

Descending through slickrock toward the base of Progeny Peak, Yoshi and I were both thrilled to be in this area since it was new for us both. Our hike so far was fully in view to the west, a spectacle of wavy sandstone at the base of The East Temple. We traversed a sandy section and then ascended a slickrock sope with a stream trickling down its center, following it to the north side of Progeny Peak. Here we inspected our ascent options. The slab appeared to be low-angle enough for us to be comfortable starting up, but a lip higher up could force us to turn back. Very steep, the Class 2/3 slab ascended reasonably to this lip in question. At its base, we paced back and forth in search of a weakness, locating one Class 3+ move. While not hard, it was exposed. There may have been a better option, but it wasn't within a hundred feet in either direction on the slabby dome where we chose to ascend. Once above this lip, we were on an easier slab and made our way up to Progeny Peak's ridgeline. Once we reached the ridge crest, we noted that we were on the standard summit route, and Class 2 led us to the summit, a gorgeous perch overlooking Zion's east side.

Backtracking along the crest of Progeny Peak seemed the most reasonable option to get down, the slab maintaining Class 2/2+. The standard route (our descent route) was surpringly unclear since the slope is wide and you've got freedom to wander, but with some route-finding on a few wide ramps we managed to reach a viewpoint of Two Pines Arch. A Class 2/2+ set of moves using blocky ledges just to the right of a deep gash took us down to Two Pines Arch. It's a neat, vertically-oriented sandstone feature. It was a quick Class 2 descent from here to get into the drainage below. We followed the drainage, avoiding little dryfalls along the way, until a social trail took us back to the road.

PEAKS ON HIKE
Elevation (ft) / Prominence (ft)
Peaks on hike
Elevation
Prominence
1
Shelf Point
6160 ft
20 rise
2
Bighorn Peak
6160 ft
160 rise
3
Progeny Peak
6275 ft
435 rise

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Along the road from the parking spot, headed west toward the Canyon Overlook trailhead.
Along the road from the parking spot, headed west toward the Canyon Overlook trailhead.
Halfway to the Canyon Overlook Trailhead, you'll get to Shelf Canyon on the right. This is a view from the road into Shelf Canyon.
Halfway to the Canyon Overlook Trailhead, you'll get to Shelf Canyon on the right. This is a view from the road into Shelf Canyon.
The start of Shelf Canyon.
The start of Shelf Canyon.
Looking back toward the road.
Looking back toward the road.
Image 4 from gallery
Entering the slot section of Shelf Canyon.
Entering the slot section of Shelf Canyon.
Image 6 from gallery
Some scrambling within the slot.
Some scrambling within the slot.
Image 8 from gallery
I went up a little farther, but it soon becomes a Class 5 chimney. We turned back and continued onward to Canyon Overlook Trail.
I went up a little farther, but it soon becomes a Class 5 chimney. We turned back and continued onward to Canyon Overlook Trail.
We started along the Canyon Overlook Trail. Pine Creek Canyon seen below on the left.
We started along the Canyon Overlook Trail. Pine Creek Canyon seen below on the left.
Image 11 from gallery
Nearing the end of the Canyon Overlook Trail. The East Temple is visible above. The route leads up the slabs seen center.
Nearing the end of the Canyon Overlook Trail. The East Temple is visible above. The route leads up the slabs seen center.
Canyon Overlook viewpoint. Bridge Mountain visible top left.
Canyon Overlook viewpoint. Bridge Mountain visible top left.
From the end of the Canyon Overlook Trail, head north toward the right shoulder of The East Temple, seen center.
From the end of the Canyon Overlook Trail, head north toward the right shoulder of The East Temple, seen center.
Looking down toward the Canyon Overlook Trail end as we start up the slabs.
Looking down toward the Canyon Overlook Trail end as we start up the slabs.
The slabs are less steep lower down, but increase in difficulty.
The slabs are less steep lower down, but increase in difficulty.
Class 2 slabs the whole way up with a couple of Class 3 moves.
Class 2 slabs the whole way up with a couple of Class 3 moves.
Almost at the top, this is the view looking toward the way we came.
Almost at the top, this is the view looking toward the way we came.
Steeper moves higher up.
Steeper moves higher up.
Headed toward Shelf Point.
Headed toward Shelf Point.
Shelf Point.
Shelf Point.
Looking up Gifford Canyon from Shelf Point.
Looking up Gifford Canyon from Shelf Point.
View down toward Shelf Canyon from Shelf Point.
View down toward Shelf Canyon from Shelf Point.
Headed down the other side of Shelf Point, Deertrap Mountain in the distance in the center.
Headed down the other side of Shelf Point, Deertrap Mountain in the distance in the center.
We followed the slope on the east side of The East Temple. Bighorn Peak seen center.
We followed the slope on the east side of The East Temple. Bighorn Peak seen center.
Some Class 2/3 obstacles along the way.
Some Class 2/3 obstacles along the way.
Along the ridge up to Bighorn Peak.
Along the ridge up to Bighorn Peak.
View back as we ascend Bighorn Peak, the impressive base of The East Temple behind Yoshi.
View back as we ascend Bighorn Peak, the impressive base of The East Temple behind Yoshi.
Looking back toward Shelf Point from Bighorn Peak.
Looking back toward Shelf Point from Bighorn Peak.
After descending a bit from Bighorn Peak's summit, looking north toward Deertrap Mountain. We headed along the ridge.
After descending a bit from Bighorn Peak's summit, looking north toward Deertrap Mountain. We headed along the ridge.
Image 31 from gallery
After heading down Bighorn Peak's north side, this is looking back up toward Bighorn Peak (left), The East Temple seen right.
After heading down Bighorn Peak's north side, this is looking back up toward Bighorn Peak (left), The East Temple seen right.
The Class 3 descent into the bowl. We chose to traverse to the right since it looked steeper than we remembered it being.
The Class 3 descent into the bowl. We chose to traverse to the right since it looked steeper than we remembered it being.
Traversing around the top of the slickrock bowl. Progeny Peak seen center.
Traversing around the top of the slickrock bowl. Progeny Peak seen center.
Descending into the slickrock bowl.
Descending into the slickrock bowl.
Within the bowl, heading toward Upper Pine Creek Canyon.
Within the bowl, heading toward Upper Pine Creek Canyon.
A cairned route into the canyon. Next we needed to ascend out of the east side of the canyon.
A cairned route into the canyon. Next we needed to ascend out of the east side of the canyon.
Now within Upper Pine Creek Canyon, you can choose to either head through it back to the trailhead. This is a shot within the canyon. Otherwise, continue on for more adventuring.
Now within Upper Pine Creek Canyon, you can choose to either head through it back to the trailhead. This is a shot within the canyon. Otherwise, continue on for more adventuring.
To get out of the canyon, we used this Class 3 exit.
To get out of the canyon, we used this Class 3 exit.
And then steep and meandering ledges up a steep Class 3 face.
And then steep and meandering ledges up a steep Class 3 face.
Above the face, a view toward the beautiful landscape on the northwest side of Progeny Peak (summit seen top left). We wrapped around to the left in this photo.
Above the face, a view toward the beautiful landscape on the northwest side of Progeny Peak (summit seen top left). We wrapped around to the left in this photo.
Wrapping around to the north side of Progreny Peak.
Wrapping around to the north side of Progreny Peak.
A view back toward The East Temple, Bighorn Peak seen center.
A view back toward The East Temple, Bighorn Peak seen center.
We took a slickrock slope with water trickling.
We took a slickrock slope with water trickling.
Another shot back, gorgeous.
Another shot back, gorgeous.
Ascending to the north side of Progeny Peak.
Ascending to the north side of Progeny Peak.
Steep slabs on Progeny Peak's north side.
Steep slabs on Progeny Peak's north side.
View back as we start the Class 2/3 ascent.
View back as we start the Class 2/3 ascent.
Yoshi on his way up, The East Temple seen top left.
Yoshi on his way up, The East Temple seen top left.
Class 3+ crux lip.
Class 3+ crux lip.
Yoshi on the crux.
Yoshi on the crux.
We reached the summit ridge of Progeny Peak.
We reached the summit ridge of Progeny Peak.
Progeny Peak, view west.
Progeny Peak, view west.
Progeny Peak, view southeast.
Progeny Peak, view southeast.
Progeny Peak, view toward Bridge Mountain and Destination Peak.
Progeny Peak, view toward Bridge Mountain and Destination Peak.
Coming down from Progeny Peak.
Coming down from Progeny Peak.
Wide slope making route-finding a little difficult.
Wide slope making route-finding a little difficult.
View back at our descent from Progeny.
View back at our descent from Progeny.
Class 2/3 ledges to get down to Two Pines Arch (seen left).
Class 2/3 ledges to get down to Two Pines Arch (seen left).
Class 2/3 blocky ledges.
Class 2/3 blocky ledges.
Two Pines Arch.
Two Pines Arch.
Class 2 down to the drainage seen center.
Class 2 down to the drainage seen center.
View back up toward Two Pines Arch (right), viewed from the drainage.
View back up toward Two Pines Arch (right), viewed from the drainage.

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