Red Slate Mountain and Red and White Mountain in Inyo National Forest, CA

Hike Red Slate Mountain and Red and White Mountain Inyo National Forest, CA

Class 3 22.9 miles 7400 gain 9-12 hrs Loop Aug 31, 2024
Effort
Beauty
Personality
Solitude

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I was really looking forward to hiking Red Slate Mountain, a peak rising over 13,000 feet deep in the John Muir Wilderness that has a trail to its summit. I’ve been told multiple times that it’s in an extremely colorful area, and I’m a sucker for crazy-colored peaks. However, if I were to hike all the way out to Red Slate Mountain, I also wanted to visit the equally-stunning Red and White Mountain to its south. I just wasn’t sure how the ridgeline connecting the two would turn out. McGee Pass Peak was another add-on I couldn’t pass up since it was so close to my intended route. I parked at the McGee Creek trailhead later than I wanted to, but I found plenty of parking and set out along the McGee Creek Trail well after sunrise. I was already able to see the stunning colors present along the whole hike from the trailhead, so I knew I was in for a gorgeous day in the Sierra.

The first few miles along the McGee Pass Trail led through a wide valley full of dusty meadows, framed by the rugged and colorful slopes of the surrounding peaks. After a few miles, I entered a more lush section within the valley that paralleled the babbling McGee Creek, introducing more foliage and eventually leading to pleasant forest walking. The trail crossed over McGee Creek a few times, aided by downed trees or constructed bridges. As the trail began to ascend more steeply, with the aid of stairs built into the slope, I started passing little waterfalls and small bodies of water. Mount Crocker came into view, as did Red and White Mountain, both very different in character and looming over the gorgeous landscape I was hiking through. It was a long approach, but I was loving every minute of it.

Eventually, after more gorgeous meadow walking and colorful sights, the McGee Pass Trail skirted around the northern side of the large Big McGee Lake, ascending above a drainage and then passing Little McGee Lake as it made its way up to McGee Pass. Here, the trail etched its way through a talus-filled valley on what would otherwise be a slog without the maintained pathway.

My first summit of the day was McGee Pass Peak, which is really just an extended tail from Red Slate Mountain's east slope, but it rises tall enough to be a ranked summit. It forms a gorgeous basin beneath it, but I had no interest in trying to reach the summit through the basin itself, which looked incredibly steep and loose. Instead, I made my way up toward McGee Pass, but I left the trail shortly before reaching it in order to ascend to McGee Pass Peak via its west ridge. After admiring some wild views to the north once I reached the ridge, I continuing up Class 2/3 terrain along the ridgeline. The going was loose and a bit annoying, the talus shifting mindlessly below my feet, but I eventually reached what I thought was the high point. I was dismayed to find out later that the true high point was just to the south, a block of nearly equal height. I would have had to descend a sketchy Class 4 move, and honestly, I had no interest in doing so. To maintain what sanity I have left, I’m going to go ahead and say I reached this summit using the dubious "head is higher" rule.

I backtracked from McGee Pass Peak and stumbled upon the fairly good trail leading up to Red Slate Mountain. On the way up, the terrain steepened into loose Class 2 talus. Looking back toward the arc of McGee Pass Peak was the highlight for me, but I could also see my ridgeline leading all the way to Red and White Mountain to the south. While the scramblnig wasn't difficult, there were lots of social trails carved into the slope that varied in difficulty, nothing really seeming to exceed Class 2+, but easy Class 2 if choosing well. I enjoyed the summit of Red Slate Mountain, especially because I’m still new to the area and wanted to pick out the many peaks surrounding me.

I descended to McGee Pass and continued south off-trail up the steep Class 2 slope, making my way to Peak 12418. This was the section of hiking I wasn’t really sure what to expect, but I knew I could always backtrack to the pass if I wasn’t having a good time. Peak 12418 was a minor summit along the ridge crest that I barely noticed because it resembled many other lumps along the way. The descent from this unnamed peak to the saddle with Red and White Mountain introduced a fair amount of slow-moving Class 2/3 on loose terrain. I made my way down, normally sticking to the crest but occasionally dropping off to the left or right to avoid the sketchiest sections. There was really no way around any of this unless I wanted to turn back, but of course, I didn’t want to at this point. I think taking the ridgeline was more efficient than dropping all the way back down the McGee Pass Trail and reascending Red and White Mountain, but maybe not.

I reached the saddle and ascended a minor lump along the crest, picking up a faint social trail through the talus that continued on Class 2 to the base of Red and White Mountain. There was one small drop that was only memorable because it really wore down my legs on the way back for some reason. Clouds were looming at this point, which was totally unexpected today, and I found myself darting as quickly as I could along the ridgeline. Normally, I would have liked to take my time and not overwhelm my cardio, but I was determined to reach the summit before a potential storm rolled in.

Red and White Mountain looks daunting from below, but the scramble does not exceed Class 3. A significant outcropping along the crest is easily avoided on the left, and cairns helped mark the way up the loose series of gullies and ribs on the northeast slope/face. The color shifted from bright orange to a foreboding black. You could easily get into sketchier scrambling, but I managed to follow little ledges here and there, only moving to higher ground when I was sure I wouldn’t get cliffed out. Even though the climbing was not difficult, it was all very steep, and it felt like the mountain was kind of falling apart. I reached the summit but only stayed long enough to take a few photos as clouds accumulated more heavily. I briefly looked down at another route used to reach Red and White Mountain, a ridiculously loose and steep slope to the east that eventually leads down to Big McGee Lake, but it looked miserable and I had no interest in completely destroying the traction on my shoes with the endless loose nonsense. This was a bit of a bummer because I had originally entertained the idea of taking this alternative route in order to more easily tack on Mount Crocker today, but I nixed all those plans.

I backtracked along the ridgeline and started down the wide northeast slopes of Red and White Mountain, progressively making my way to Little McGee Lake below. The upper section was easy walking on tundra or with some light Class 2, but lower down, there were a couple of small cliffs that required some route-finding to avoid steep drops. I filled up on water at the lake before rejoining the McGee Pass Trail. My wildly fast pace had taken its toll. I could finally slow down because I was much lower in elevation and at a lower risk of getting struck by lightning, but now that my adrenaline had cooled off, I felt burnt out. I spent most of the hike back walking at a more moderate pace until I felt rehydrated and could move more quickly again.

PEAKS ON HIKE
Elevation (ft) / Prominence (ft)
Peaks on hike
Elevation
Prominence
1
McGee Pass Peak
12402 ft
394 rise
2
Red Slate Mountain
13123 ft
1683 rise
3
Peak 12418
12418 ft
318 rise
4
Red and White Mountain
12816 ft
936 rise

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Starting along the McGee Pass Trail.
Starting along the McGee Pass Trail.
Entering John Muir Wilderness.
Entering John Muir Wilderness.
Easy walking along the McGee Pass Trail for a few miles.
Easy walking along the McGee Pass Trail for a few miles.
The trail slowly ascends through the valley.
The trail slowly ascends through the valley.
A crossing of McGee Creek.
A crossing of McGee Creek.
Mount Crocker visible on the horizon. The McGee Pass Trail parallels the creek and swamps along the way.
Mount Crocker visible on the horizon. The McGee Pass Trail parallels the creek and swamps along the way.
View back down the valley.
View back down the valley.
Another creek crossing before starting to ascend more steeply through the forest.
Another creek crossing before starting to ascend more steeply through the forest.
A junction, keeping right for foot traffic.
A junction, keeping right for foot traffic.
Pretty forest walking along the McGee Pass Trail.
Pretty forest walking along the McGee Pass Trail.
Little cascades within McGee Creek.
Little cascades within McGee Creek.
Continuing through the forest.
Continuing through the forest.
Switchbacks constructed as the slope steepens.
Switchbacks constructed as the slope steepens.
View back down.
View back down.
The trail navigates around cliffs within the McGee Creek drainage.
The trail navigates around cliffs within the McGee Creek drainage.
A sign pointing toward McGee Lake.
A sign pointing toward McGee Lake.
The trees thin out a bit, more views toward the surrounding peaks.
The trees thin out a bit, more views toward the surrounding peaks.
Looking back.
Looking back.
Approaching a meadow higher up, a bit before Big McGee Lake. The colors of the surrounding peaks are incredible around here.
Approaching a meadow higher up, a bit before Big McGee Lake. The colors of the surrounding peaks are incredible around here.
The southern ridge of Mount Baldwin, gorgeous.
The southern ridge of Mount Baldwin, gorgeous.
The McGee Pass Trail leads through a meadow.
The McGee Pass Trail leads through a meadow.
View back through meadows.
View back through meadows.
This area was gorgeous.
This area was gorgeous.
Image 23 from gallery
Image 24 from gallery
Image 25 from gallery
Close-up of Red and White Mountain seen above.
Close-up of Red and White Mountain seen above.
Big McGee Lake. The McGee Pass Trail wraps around its north side.
Big McGee Lake. The McGee Pass Trail wraps around its north side.
View back toward Big McGee Lake.
View back toward Big McGee Lake.
The trail climbs up to the valley seen center.
The trail climbs up to the valley seen center.
Image 30 from gallery
View back toward Big McGee Lake.
View back toward Big McGee Lake.
Approaching Little McGee Lake (left), now entering the valley leading up to McGee Pass.
Approaching Little McGee Lake (left), now entering the valley leading up to McGee Pass.
The trail leads through scree, and it is well-maintained.
The trail leads through scree, and it is well-maintained.
View back toward Little McGee Lake.
View back toward Little McGee Lake.
Image 35 from gallery
Entering the bowl beneath McGee Pass Peak (out of frame top right).
Entering the bowl beneath McGee Pass Peak (out of frame top right).
I left the trail and headed up to McGee Pass Peak first.
I left the trail and headed up to McGee Pass Peak first.
Looking north from the saddle toward Bloody Mountain and Mount Baldwin.
Looking north from the saddle toward Bloody Mountain and Mount Baldwin.
View back toward the saddle and Red Slate Mountain, on my way up to McGee Pass Peak.
View back toward the saddle and Red Slate Mountain, on my way up to McGee Pass Peak.
Class 2/3 along the ridgeline. McGee Pass Peak seen ahead.
Class 2/3 along the ridgeline. McGee Pass Peak seen ahead.
I reached this point that seemed equally as tall as the one in the center. A sketchy Class 4 move was required to get to the other point, but I didn't have any interest.
I reached this point that seemed equally as tall as the one in the center. A sketchy Class 4 move was required to get to the other point, but I didn't have any interest.
Back at the saddle, heading up to Red Slate Mountain on a good social trail.
Back at the saddle, heading up to Red Slate Mountain on a good social trail.
View back, McGee Pass Peak seen left. Red and White Mountain top right.
View back, McGee Pass Peak seen left. Red and White Mountain top right.
McGee Pass Peak close-up.
McGee Pass Peak close-up.
Class 2 up talus, higher up.
Class 2 up talus, higher up.
Another shot back down on my way up Red Slate Mountain. My ridgeline to Red and White Mountain seen right of center.
Another shot back down on my way up Red Slate Mountain. My ridgeline to Red and White Mountain seen right of center.
More Class 2.
More Class 2.
Summit of Red Slate Mountain, view west.
Summit of Red Slate Mountain, view west.
Summit of Red Slate Mountain, close-up at the ridge to come, ending at Red and White Mountain.
Summit of Red Slate Mountain, close-up at the ridge to come, ending at Red and White Mountain.
Summit of Red Slate Mountain, view north.
Summit of Red Slate Mountain, view north.
From McGee Pass, I headed off-trail south up toward Peak 12418.
From McGee Pass, I headed off-trail south up toward Peak 12418.
View back along the ridgeline. Red Slate Mountain left, McGee Pass Peak right.
View back along the ridgeline. Red Slate Mountain left, McGee Pass Peak right.
Class 2 along the way.
Class 2 along the way.
Past Peak 12418's summit, it gets gnarlier. Class 2/3 loose stuff.
Past Peak 12418's summit, it gets gnarlier. Class 2/3 loose stuff.
View back.
View back.
I left the crest at a point when it was too sketchy, keeping just below it. My goal is the saddle seen in the center, where the ridgeline is no longer annoying and loose.
I left the crest at a point when it was too sketchy, keeping just below it. My goal is the saddle seen in the center, where the ridgeline is no longer annoying and loose.
Red and White Mountain ahead. There was a little dip in the ridgeline.
Red and White Mountain ahead. There was a little dip in the ridgeline.
View back as I make my way up toward Red and white Mountain.
View back as I make my way up toward Red and white Mountain.
Approaching the base of Red and White Mountain. I kept left once I reached the steep crest outcropping ahead.
Approaching the base of Red and White Mountain. I kept left once I reached the steep crest outcropping ahead.
Just left of the crest.
Just left of the crest.
View back at the initial Class 2/3.
View back at the initial Class 2/3.
Class 2/3.
Class 2/3.
View back down at more progress up the somewhat loose route up Red and White Mountain.
View back down at more progress up the somewhat loose route up Red and White Mountain.
Some light Class 3 mixed in, but it's a steep scramble, so I went slowly.
Some light Class 3 mixed in, but it's a steep scramble, so I went slowly.
View back as I near the summit.
View back as I near the summit.
Red and White Mountain ahead.
Red and White Mountain ahead.
Red and White Mountain summit, view southeast.
Red and White Mountain summit, view southeast.
Red and White Mountain summit, view north. McGee Pass Peak and Red Slate Mountain seen left.
Red and White Mountain summit, view north. McGee Pass Peak and Red Slate Mountain seen left.
Red and White Mountain summit, view southeast.
Red and White Mountain summit, view southeast.
I backtracked and descended down to Little McGee Lake.
I backtracked and descended down to Little McGee Lake.
Little McGee Lake left, Big McGee Lake right.
Little McGee Lake left, Big McGee Lake right.
A Class 2/3 obstacle on the way down.
A Class 2/3 obstacle on the way down.
View up at the descent route (right) and Red and White Mountain (left).
View up at the descent route (right) and Red and White Mountain (left).

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