Class 2 17.4 miles 1600 gain 5-7 hrs Out + Back Oct 24, 2024
Effort
Beauty
Personality
Solitude

Pilot Rock GPX Track

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Pilot Rock is the highest point in Petrified Forest National Park, but my interest in reaching it was more about experiencing a long outing in the park’s backcountry. Years ago, I was eager to explore this park but, as a less-experienced hiker I skipped Pilot Rock, deterred by the daunting miles and the risk of getting lost. Yet, the idea of wandering through the vast Painted Desert badlands in pursuit of this summit lingered in my mind, keeping it on my to-do list. The peak is located in the northwest corner of Petrified Forest National Park, far from the visitor center and scenic drive. I believe an easier route exists from that the west, but it requires a permit and navigating a bad road, plus the fun of this outing was to traverse a large area of the park on foot.

Unlike most national parks, Petrified Forest National Park remains closed to traffic until its official opening time, which meant a later start than I would have preferred. I parked at the Painted Desert Inn, which offers some cool historical exhibits, although I didn’t go inside during this visit. I could see Pilot Rock on the distant horizon, the only notable lump in an otherwise flat area. I started down a well-worn trail that switchbacks from the mesa housing the Painted Desert Inn down into the badlands below. The trail continues for about half a mile before starting to peter out.

Beforehand, I had spent some time planning my route, studying satellite imagery to minimize the effort of going up and over the numerous lumps characteristic of the badlands in this area. However, it turns out that most of this can be avoided by following various washes until reaching the very base of Pilot Rock. Accessing each wash required some careful navigation, and I was glad to have a GPS for this route. Thankfully, it’s difficult to get truly lost here since Pilot Rock serves as a landmark to the northwest, with the Painted Desert Inn atop the mesa acting as a beacon behind me. While getting lost on an outing like this would not be ideal, knowing the locations of these two features provided extra reassurance in case something happened to my GPS.

After an easy walk through the desert, I crossed Lithodendron Wash and entered a minor drainage dotted with pieces of petrified wood. I was a bit disappointed to realize that most of the petrified wood is concentrated within the first couple of miles. For the rest of the hike, I encountered mostly rust-colored hills straddling the washes I chose to navigate. I had visited this nook of the park before during an excursion to Onyx Bridge, but it was nice to revisit and see some of the natural artifacts again. This short section also marked the first bit of badland terrain I needed to navigate. After descending out of these small hills, I continued north through a major wash, eventually veering left into its northwest spur.

As the wash narrowed into a web of little drainages, I followed the most prominent one, which led to the base of an eroded cliff forming an extensive rim. Reaching this rim required either navigating the bumpy, narrow badland fingers or finding one of the tiny drainages that offered access higher up. After a couple of tries, I located a suitable drainage, which required a Class 2+ scramble to ascend the rim. For others attempting this route, it may be easier to reach the rim farther north, where the terrain seems less steep.

Once above the rim, I got an excellent view of Pilot Rock and was now well over halfway there. I followed the rim briefly before descending lumpy terrain into another wide wash. This wash was so wide at points that I occasionally questioned whether I was still even within it. I crossed over Digger Wash and began ascending a series of smaller drainages leading to the base of Pilot Rock. 

From below, it was clear that the easiest route to gain the summit woud be from a slope on the southeast side, which I explored on my descent and confirmed. However, on the way up, I was tempted by the interesting-looking gully riddled with large black boulders that separated volcanic cliffs on the left from grassy slope on the right. This was a fun little undertaking, involving a few rabbit-hole crawl spaces and Class 2+ boulder obstacles. My fluffy running shoes expressed their distaste for the loose terrain and tossed me to the ground. Higher up, I exited the gully and ascended the grassy slope to the right, avoiding small dryfalls. I followed the grassy slope to the summit of Pilot Rock, where I got wonderfully expansive views of the Painted Desert.

PEAKS ON HIKE
Elevation (ft) / Prominence (ft)
Peaks on hike
Elevation
Prominence
1
Pilot Rock
6234 ft
514 rise

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Painted Desert Inn.
Painted Desert Inn.
Pilot Rock seen top left. I took the official trail down into the badlands.
Pilot Rock seen top left. I took the official trail down into the badlands.
The trail continues for a while.
The trail continues for a while.
Open desert along the official trail.
Open desert along the official trail.
View back toward the Painted Desert Inn (top right).
View back toward the Painted Desert Inn (top right).
Crossing over Lithodendron Wash, no more trail.
Crossing over Lithodendron Wash, no more trail.
Lithodendron Wash.
Lithodendron Wash.
Ascending into an area full of petrified wood.
Ascending into an area full of petrified wood.
Always fun to see these guys.
Always fun to see these guys.
View back as I ascend into the badlands.
View back as I ascend into the badlands.
Pilot Rock in the distance.
Pilot Rock in the distance.
I entered a major wash for a long time.
I entered a major wash for a long time.
It was straightforward, mostly flat hiking for a while.
It was straightforward, mostly flat hiking for a while.
View back within the wash toward the Painted Desert Inn.
View back within the wash toward the Painted Desert Inn.
Still within the wash, miles later.
Still within the wash, miles later.
Ascending a minor wash to locate a way up the rim seen center.
Ascending a minor wash to locate a way up the rim seen center.
Looking back at my Class 2+ chosen gully to get onto the rim.
Looking back at my Class 2+ chosen gully to get onto the rim.
Pretty eroded cliffs along the rim.
Pretty eroded cliffs along the rim.
Continuing through badlands and into a wash, Pilot Rock seen ahead.
Continuing through badlands and into a wash, Pilot Rock seen ahead.
Within the wash after crossing over Digger Wash.
Within the wash after crossing over Digger Wash.
Navigating minor gullies to reach the base of Pilot Rock.
Navigating minor gullies to reach the base of Pilot Rock.
Colorful terrain around the base of the peak. The easiest way up is on the far right in this photo, but I ascended via the wide gully center.
Colorful terrain around the base of the peak. The easiest way up is on the far right in this photo, but I ascended via the wide gully center.
Approaching my ascent choice.
Approaching my ascent choice.
A couple of rabbit-hole crawl spaces.
A couple of rabbit-hole crawl spaces.
Some fun scrambling up the gully.
Some fun scrambling up the gully.
I left the gully when it got too steep and loose, choosing the grassy slope on the right instead.
I left the gully when it got too steep and loose, choosing the grassy slope on the right instead.
View back down the way I came.
View back down the way I came.
Easy slope hike to the summit, seen ahead.
Easy slope hike to the summit, seen ahead.
Pilot Rock summit, view east.
Pilot Rock summit, view east.
Close-up toward the Painted Desert Inn, center.
Close-up toward the Painted Desert Inn, center.
On the way back I chose an easier route down Pilot Rock, barely Class 2, seen here.
On the way back I chose an easier route down Pilot Rock, barely Class 2, seen here.

Hire me or show me some love!

Hire/refer me as a web developer or send me a few bucks if you find my site useful. I’m not sponsored, so all fees are out-of-pocket and my time preparing trip reports is unpaid. I really appreciate it!