Hike Picacho Peak Chocolate Mountains BLM, CA

In the time it took me to write the trip report since failing after my first time attempting Picacho Peak within California’s Chocolate Mountains, I had two anxiety-inducing dreams about it. The peak haunted me. I wanted to try again, so I recruited braver-than-I Lorenzo and his friends Jose and Rob to give it another go a few months later, and we succeeded. You might notice a change in photo lighting throughout the photo progression below since there’s a combination of photos from two trips. Also, I should be responsible and note that this is not the popular Picacho Peak in Arizona, which is a much less technical endeavor.

The main Picacho Road is in great shape, except for a sandy section (though a Prius was able to get through it). A very bad road leads from the mouth of Burro Wash to the north rim, so I recommend continuing up Burro Wash until a dryfall. Even so, less than high-clearance won’t be to make it all the way up the wash. The turn-off for Burro Wash is located here (32.97845, -114.6366), but my Crossover SUV could not proceed past the first hundred feet.

We set out along the standard route, a small dryfall at the end of Burro Wash taking us into a major wash. A small section of boulder-hopping up the wash lasted just long enough to be fun, and then we encountered a short slot canyon. Picacho Peak’s incredible sheer dark cliffs inched closer as we continued through the wash. A bit under a mile into the hike, a social trail leaves the main wash and follows a ridge on the right, heading generally northwest. It heads through the desert on generally flat terrain for a bit. The social trail then ascends just to the left of a bouldery gully on a steep slope to a saddle just southwest of Picacho Peak. The trail isn’t initially clear here, so just make sure to keep left of the bouldery gully, or you’ll add some extra work.

Once on the ridge, we gawked at a couple of the incredible desert towers to the west. We continued north along this pretty ridge, and then side-hilled along the slopes below Picacho’s impressive cliffs. The social trail is obvious here. The Class 2 boulder-filled gully ahead that’s necessary to get to the notch separating Picacho Peak from its lower neighboring tower was the destination. This notch is pivotal in getting above the well-fortified lower cliffs of Picacho Peak. What a weird and wonderful route.

We headed up the Class 2 gully to the impressive notch, where we were nestled between the sub-pinnacles to the left, and a short Class 3 scramble on the right to get out of the notch. A vertigo-inducing view to the north had us completely impressed. Once up the short Class 3 section, we continued ascending on a ramp. Unfortunately, someone has painted arrows on the walls of the route. It’s straightforward enough of a route without the need for graffiti, thank you. The ramp led up to the infamous first wooden ladder used to access a ledge. Without the ladder, this move is a short and non-exposed low Class 5 set of moves. Just after the ladder, we followed a ledge until we encountered a Class 4 gap. We chose to down-climb into the gap, and then climb out the other side. Lorenzo, naturally, jumped the gap. I’ll note that it’s likely only a 20 foot drop below, and not just open air into oblivion. Quite an interesting little section, we thought. On a later January 2025 visit, someone had placed a small platform here to protect the gap.

We continued along the ledge, stunning views of the area as we continued. There were absolutely terrific natural switchbacks embedded into the face, bringing us higher and higher on a series of ledges. Although not carved by humans, the ledges used for this section of the route seemed like they were made for human access, wide and steep and walkable. I had a blast ascending this unique section, honestly. Eventually, we encountered a second ladder, a metal one with a fairly scary drop off to the left. This section would likely not be easily climbable without the ladder, definitely moderate Class 5. So thank you to whoever brought this ladder up here.

Just after the metal ladder, we rounded a corner and were on one of the most incredible ridgelines I’ve ever experienced. We felt like we were in thin air, 360 views in all directions with sheer cliffs below us, the view down to the desert below unobstructed.

We continued along the ridge, excited to be close to the summit, but were stopped by a horrifying cliff face. This face was the north side of a false summit, and required getting over it, rappelling down its other side, and then walking up to the true summit. On my first attempt with Matt, this cliff face was on our radar, but we weren’t expecting this. Other trip reports called this move Class 4, with one person even saying Class 3. Okay. Were we missing something? A slightly overhanging couple of moves with a 1,000 foot drop directly to the left does not warrant Class 4 status in my book. Although the moves aren’t hard, the consequence is sure death and the move is slightly overhung. I thought it was a bit funny how the route felt a bit accessible because of the marked green arrows and stationary ladders, but this objectively dangerous spot was left raw. Matt and I entertained the idea briefly of free soloing it, but even the thought had us both riddled with anxiety.

On my second visit to Picacho Peak, Lorenzo tossed a rope over the top of a protrusion on top of the rock feature and through a small crack that felt safe enough to use as an anchor for belaying. He then scrambled up to the crux, agreed with me that it was Class 5, and he laughed briefly at the fact that the rock had the potential to be quite crumbly. It definitely required some thinking and I’d go as far as call the move exposed 5.4.

Once above the crux, we rappelled off the south side. You’ll need to ascend this rope on the way back, so definitely don’t pull the rope or you’ll be stuck climbing the ascent (likely a 5.8). It’s the only way back after all. I recommend bringing a bolt tool if you’ve got one. At least one of the available bolts is looking a little rusty. As of January 2025, the bolts are still there and still rusty. We used all of the available bolts as backups, since none really felt trustworthy by themselves. We walked along a well-defined trail to the Class 2 summit block. Incredible peak.