Muddy Mountains Traverse in Lake Mead National Recreation Area, NV

Hike Muddy Mountains Traverse Lake Mead National Recreation Area, NV

Class 4 18.2 miles 5700 gain 9-12 hrs Loop Nov 9, 2020
Effort
Beauty
Personality
Solitude

Muddy Mountains Traverse GPX Track

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A couple of years ago I hiked Muddy Peak and Muddy Benchmark using a lesser-traveled route to make the hike into a really nice loop.  I enjoyed the Muddy Peak Class 3 scramble most of all. I recommend checking out that route out if you haven't been to the Muddies before, but for a more adventurous trip that traverses all the high points of the Muddies, this is the way to go, though it does add an exposed Class 4 ridgeline traverse on surprisingly solid rock. I loved this route and found it to be among the best in the desert.

I was left with some FOMO on my first visit to the Muddies since I didn't hike the two lesser peaks to the south of Muddy Benchmark and Muddy Peak: Peak 5354, and Luxor Peak. Revisiting the area and attempting a massive loop would be the best way to get them, I figured. I couldn't find any information about the traverse from Muddy Peak to Luxor Peak aside from one person mentioning it looked "unfriendly". The rest of the route seemed doable, though. My friends Matt and Chris were visiting, so I suggested we attempt this route, unsure if we'd be able to complete the loop, and they agreed.

I highly recommend doing this route clockwise as we did. It makes scary stuff into up-climbs rather than down and also allows for a bail point after doing the majority of the loop, so if the traverse ends up being too much for you, you can back down and only skip Luxor Peak rather than have to miss the rest of the traverse. More on the sketchy stuff later.

We decided to start from the Anniversary Narrows trailhead. 2WD can get to the trailhead, but it requires a short section of driving over a sandy wash where you could get stuck. As of 2019 the trailhead is open, but it was closed for some time since it crossed over private property, requiring the use of an alternative route. The slot is fairly short and non-technical, except for some boulders you need to climb over.

Once through the narrows, continue left at a junction within the wash and follow this for many miles north. While this section is a bit long, the wash has some nice rock features and fun dryfall obstacles, so it's not as bad as it seems on a map. We continued north through a narrow section with some Class 3 moves and then ascended the slopes on the right to gain the south ridge of Peak 5354. The route continued as Class 2 to the summit, where the views toward Muddy Peak and the ridgeline to Luxor looked quite intimidating. We headed north along the ridge to Muddy Benchmark, where we encountered a few sections of Class 2/3 down climbing, and a Class 2 chute to gain a sub-peak about halfway along the ridge. We also did an exposed Class 3 down climb halfway between the sub-peak and Muddy Benchmark that could have been avoided by traversing a small cliff and dropping down on the left when the cliff petered out. This option was only visible after we already made the move.

From Muddy Benchmark we continued north and located the somewhat cryptic route that I vaguely remembered (since I had come up from the opposite direction on my previous ascent). It requires wrapping around the north slopes of the false summit of Muddy Benchmark by locating an easy Class 3 down climb (marked with a cairn) from the cliffs and following a wide, sloping ledge. A couple more easy Class 2/3 down climbs lead to a series of small arches that mark the route if coming from the opposite direction. From here, Class 2 leads down to the saddle with Muddy Peak.

A well-traveled social trail continues from the saddle up to the Muddy Peak north ridge. The north ridge has a few fun Class 3 climbs, some of which can be avoided by staying to the right. We soon found ourselves at the base of Muddy Peak's classic Class 3 scramble, a sustained Class 3 chute with good holds and mostly solid rock. A somewhat exposed Class 2/3 move leads out of the chute and onto the final short Class 2/3 scramble to the summit.

We scoped the route south from Muddy Peak, skeptical of a potential route because of scary-looking cliffy terrain. Surprisingly, a social trail complete with cairns marked a Class 2 fairly safe route to the left of the cliffs. We were thrilled, but knew the hard stuff was still to come. I assume these cairns mark an alternative to gain Muddy Peak rather than the north ridge, but I'm not sure. After the Class 2 descent to the saddle of Muddy Peak and Luxor Peak, we noted a possible bail option to the right leading d own into Lovell Wash, but it looked steep and loose and we really hoped the ridge to Luxor Peak would go. Almost immediately after leaving the saddle, we were faced with a Class 3+ set of moves with some light exposure to continue along the ridge. This set of moves might be avoidable if you drop down off the ridge and re-ascend on the right, but if you're not feeling good about this move, I highly recommend not continuing. It only gets more scary from here.

We continued along the ridge, playing on the occasional Class 2/3 section of ridgeline. I felt a pit in my stomach when we approached a particularly scary-looking spire not dissimilar in appearance to Muddy Peak. From far away, it looked impossible, similarly to how Muddy Peak appears at first glance. I was getting antsy, knowing how rugged these limestone ridges can become, having regularly encountered surprise cliffs on other peaks in the area. However, once we reached the base of this spire along the ridgeline, we noted a chute on the right. It required a Class 2 side-hill to reach its base, then a long Class 2/3 scramble up the chute that resembled that of Muddy Peak's ascent chute. It led to a Class 3 crux move higher up, and ultimately to a safe spot on top. I was surprised and thrilled at how nicely the ridge was going so far. But then the pit in my stomach returned. A short Class 2 descent led to the base of what appeared to be a 20-foot narrow cliff with a sheer drop on the right. We approached and inspected it. Chris climbed up, convinced it would go. It did. He scouted ahead before Matt and I climbed the 20-foot cliff, confident the route would continue farther. Matt and I headed up. This cliff is certainly the crux of the day. It's an incredibly fun Class 4 climb on surprisingly solid rock. The route finding gods were watching over us and provided an incredibly fun scramble. Somehow this route was working. I seriously can't believe how good it was.

At the top of the crux, we were faced with a short Class 2 down climb and then a severe almost-knife-edge that lasted about 50 feet across, ending with outstanding views back along the ridgeline. The knife edge included a scary step-across, a short up-scramble, and bad drops on either side. If the rock wasn't a solid as it was, I certainly wouldn't have done it. Once past the knife edge, we took in the views and continued to Luxor Peak on easy terrain. I couldn't shut up about how much fun the route was. In hindsight, it WAS fun. But I think a lot of the fun came from the fact that we attempted a random traverse without any information and it ended up possibly being my favorite desert scramble.

We dropped down from Luxor Peak and were cliffed-out a few hundred feet from the wash below. We side-hilled for a long time with some Class 2 mixed in until the cliff band broke and we could descend. I added a possibly better route option in pink to the attached map, but I don't know if it will actually go. Just suggesting maybe try that way instead for a more direct route. From the wash below, we traversed over a small hill and dropped into Lovell Wash. We followed the wash back into Anniversary Narrows, completing the loop.

PEAKS ON HIKE
Elevation (ft) / Prominence (ft)
Peaks on hike
Elevation
Prominence
1
Peak 5354
5354 ft
302 rise
2
Muddy Benchmark (Muddy Mountains High Point)
5433 ft
2913 rise
3
Muddy Peak
5387 ft
876 rise
4
Luxor Peak
5115 ft
423 rise

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Entering Anniversary Narrows from the trailhead.
Entering Anniversary Narrows from the trailhead.
Heading through Anniversary Narrows.
Heading through Anniversary Narrows.
I only included a few photos of Anniversary Narrows since I've been through the slot more times than I can count over the years.
I only included a few photos of Anniversary Narrows since I've been through the slot more times than I can count over the years.
Heading up the wash. Muddy Mountains visible in the distance.
Heading up the wash. Muddy Mountains visible in the distance.
A narrower section of the wash.
A narrower section of the wash.
Some fun scramble sections, but it's mostly just a wash walk for a bunch of miles to reach the base of Peak 5354.
Some fun scramble sections, but it's mostly just a wash walk for a bunch of miles to reach the base of Peak 5354.
Muddy Mountains ahead.
Muddy Mountains ahead.
Peak 5354 left, Luxor Peak right.
Peak 5354 left, Luxor Peak right.
Scrambly section within the wash, just before we left the drainage to gain the ridge.
Scrambly section within the wash, just before we left the drainage to gain the ridge.
Leaving the wash to head up the ridge, ascending to Peak 5354.
Leaving the wash to head up the ridge, ascending to Peak 5354.
Peak 5354 up there somewhere.
Peak 5354 up there somewhere.
Looking back at our progress. Anniversary Narrows visible left of center. Lake Mead in the distance.
Looking back at our progress. Anniversary Narrows visible left of center. Lake Mead in the distance.
Class 2 up to Peak 5354.
Class 2 up to Peak 5354.
Muddy Peak visible top right as we approach the summit of Peak 5354.
Muddy Peak visible top right as we approach the summit of Peak 5354.
Looking back again toward Anniversary Narrows (left of center) and Lake Mead.
Looking back again toward Anniversary Narrows (left of center) and Lake Mead.
Summit of Peak 5354, view toward the traverse of Muddy Peak (left) and Luxor Peak (right).
Summit of Peak 5354, view toward the traverse of Muddy Peak (left) and Luxor Peak (right).
Continuing toward Muddy Benchmark from Peak 5354.
Continuing toward Muddy Benchmark from Peak 5354.
Muddy Benchmark top left. Sub-peak about halfway seen on the right, where there's a cool Class 2 chute.
Muddy Benchmark top left. Sub-peak about halfway seen on the right, where there's a cool Class 2 chute.
Heading up the Class 2 chute to the midway peak.
Heading up the Class 2 chute to the midway peak.
Looking back toward Peak 5354 as we ascend the chute.
Looking back toward Peak 5354 as we ascend the chute.
Onward to Muddy Benchmark.
Onward to Muddy Benchmark.
Looking back along the ridge.
Looking back along the ridge.
Class 3 downclimb with some exposure.
Class 3 downclimb with some exposure.
Looking back at the ridge traverse. Peak 5354 visible top right. Muddy Peak and Luxor Peak visible top left. You can also see the previous Class 3 down climb along the ridge that we could have avoided by just following the cliff band until we found easier terrain.
Looking back at the ridge traverse. Peak 5354 visible top right. Muddy Peak and Luxor Peak visible top left. You can also see the previous Class 3 down climb along the ridge that we could have avoided by just following the cliff band until we found easier terrain.
Close-up toward the Muddy Peak standard route.
Close-up toward the Muddy Peak standard route.
False summit of Muddy Benchmark. The route heads up the ridge and drops down the opposite side somewhere around the center of this photo.
False summit of Muddy Benchmark. The route heads up the ridge and drops down the opposite side somewhere around the center of this photo.
The key drop off spot, easy Class 3.
The key drop off spot, easy Class 3.
Easy Class 3 downclimb.
Easy Class 3 downclimb.
Wide sloping ledge.
Wide sloping ledge.
Looking back as we continue along the wide sloping ledge.
Looking back as we continue along the wide sloping ledge.
Class 2/3 stuff past the arches marking the route.
Class 2/3 stuff past the arches marking the route.
Class 2 over to Muddy Peak. We mostly followed the ridgeline.
Class 2 over to Muddy Peak. We mostly followed the ridgeline.
Looking back toward Muddy Benchmark (top left) and the false summit we wrapped around visible right.
Looking back toward Muddy Benchmark (top left) and the false summit we wrapped around visible right.
Dropping down to the saddle with Muddy Peak, visible center.
Dropping down to the saddle with Muddy Peak, visible center.
Looking back at the descent from Muddy Benchmark, the saddle visible center. Lovell Wash seen on the right.
Looking back at the descent from Muddy Benchmark, the saddle visible center. Lovell Wash seen on the right.
Class 2 up to the north ridge of Muddy Peak.
Class 2 up to the north ridge of Muddy Peak.
Looking back.
Looking back.
Saddle below, Muddy Benchmark top left.
Saddle below, Muddy Benchmark top left.
Muddy Peak ahead.
Muddy Peak ahead.
Some Class 2/3 obstacles along the ridge, most avoidable.
Some Class 2/3 obstacles along the ridge, most avoidable.
Image 40 from gallery
Image 41 from gallery
Class 3 obstacle.
Class 3 obstacle.
Looking down at a Class 3 obstacle.
Looking down at a Class 3 obstacle.
Another Class 3 obstacle before reaching the base of Muddy Peak's famous chute.
Another Class 3 obstacle before reaching the base of Muddy Peak's famous chute.
Muddy Peak. The route heads up the chute just right of the ridge crest on the left.
Muddy Peak. The route heads up the chute just right of the ridge crest on the left.
Class 3 chute.
Class 3 chute.
Looking down the first bit.
Looking down the first bit.
Second part of the chute, a bit steeper.
Second part of the chute, a bit steeper.
Looking down the second part of the Class 3 chute.
Looking down the second part of the Class 3 chute.
Above the Class 3, just before starting the final Class 2/3 scramble to the summit of Muddy Peak.
Above the Class 3, just before starting the final Class 2/3 scramble to the summit of Muddy Peak.
Matt on the final Class 2/3.
Matt on the final Class 2/3.
Muddy Peak, view toward Luxor Peak. Lake Mead visible top right, Anniversary Narrows just in front of it. Lovell Wash visible on the right. The cliffs looked intimidating coming up.
Muddy Peak, view toward Luxor Peak. Lake Mead visible top right, Anniversary Narrows just in front of it. Lovell Wash visible on the right. The cliffs looked intimidating coming up.
But the cliffs weren't. Class 2 from Muddy Peak.
But the cliffs weren't. Class 2 from Muddy Peak.
Cairned route down from Muddy Peak to its saddle with Luxor Peak.
Cairned route down from Muddy Peak to its saddle with Luxor Peak.
Scary-looking spire ahead.
Scary-looking spire ahead.
Class 3+ move to stay on the ridge. I recommend doing this move. It only gets harder from here.
Class 3+ move to stay on the ridge. I recommend doing this move. It only gets harder from here.
Class 2/3 obstacles.
Class 2/3 obstacles.
One of the fun obstacles along the ridge before reaching the base of the scary-looking spire.
One of the fun obstacles along the ridge before reaching the base of the scary-looking spire.
Looking back at our progress, Muddy Peak visible top.
Looking back at our progress, Muddy Peak visible top.
At the base of the scary-looking spire. Our route headed right, over to the shadowy chute on the right.
At the base of the scary-looking spire. Our route headed right, over to the shadowy chute on the right.
Looking down the Class 2/3 chute.
Looking down the Class 2/3 chute.
Matt pulling the crux Class 3 move out of the chute. Class 2 to the top of the spire.
Matt pulling the crux Class 3 move out of the chute. Class 2 to the top of the spire.
Short descent from the spire, down to the scary-looking cliff ahead.
Short descent from the spire, down to the scary-looking cliff ahead.
Chris heading up the Class 4 scramble. The rock was great. Really fun, with relatively low risk of rock popping out.
Chris heading up the Class 4 scramble. The rock was great. Really fun, with relatively low risk of rock popping out.
Close- up of Matt on the crux. Scary drop to the right.
Close- up of Matt on the crux. Scary drop to the right.
Looking back down the Class 4 crux.
Looking back down the Class 4 crux.
Continuing along the ridge, knife-edge ahead.
Continuing along the ridge, knife-edge ahead.
Chris along the knife-edge.
Chris along the knife-edge.
Looking back at Matt on the knife-edge.
Looking back at Matt on the knife-edge.
Matt doing a step-across airy move.
Matt doing a step-across airy move.
Another shot back at the incredibly cool knife-edge.
Another shot back at the incredibly cool knife-edge.
Matt scrambling up the scariest part of the knife-edge, a Class 3 up-climb.
Matt scrambling up the scariest part of the knife-edge, a Class 3 up-climb.
Looking back, just after Matt finished the up-climb. Still a little bit more knife-edge, but not as scary. Behind me is easy terrain.
Looking back, just after Matt finished the up-climb. Still a little bit more knife-edge, but not as scary. Behind me is easy terrain.
Just past the knife, Luxor Peak ahead.
Just past the knife, Luxor Peak ahead.
Lux or Peak summit, view back along the ridge. Muddy Peak visible top right, Muddy Benchmark left of center, Peak 5354 on the left. Lovell Wash below on the left.
Lux or Peak summit, view back along the ridge. Muddy Peak visible top right, Muddy Benchmark left of center, Peak 5354 on the left. Lovell Wash below on the left.
Close-up of the Lake Mead northshore peaklets. Amazing.
Close-up of the Lake Mead northshore peaklets. Amazing.
Descending from Luxor Peak.
Descending from Luxor Peak.
Looking back toward Luxor Peak once within the wash below. It got dark. We headed over to Lovell Wash and followed it back to Anniversary Narrows.
Looking back toward Luxor Peak once within the wash below. It got dark. We headed over to Lovell Wash and followed it back to Anniversary Narrows.

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Hire/refer me as a web developer or send me a few bucks if you find my site useful. I’m not sponsored, so all fees are out-of-pocket and my time preparing trip reports is unpaid. I really appreciate it!