
Montezuma Head seen center, many miles away.

A view toward some unnamed peaks to the south of Montezuma Head. They look quite nice.

Along the road leading for a couple of miles to the base of Montezuma Head.

We left the road and continued to the northern (left) outcropping for easiest access to Montezuma Head (right). The slope we used is right above Chris' head.

View back the way we came through the open desert.

Ascending the slope to the northern pinnacle (seen center). Montezuma Head seen on the right.

Brushy terrain leading to Class 2+ beneath the cliffs above.

View down the Class 2+ and the slope we just ascended.

Side-hilling beneath the cliffs, and Montezuma Head comes into view.

Holy moly, there it is.

Close-up of Montezuma Head. Pitch 1 leads up the dark chute seen right of center.

The three layers of Montezuma Head. This is a shot from on the way out later, which highlighted the peak with different lighting.

First layer of the Montezuma cake. Class 2/3.

View back along the ridge.

Class 2/3 to get up the first layer.

Entering the chimney where Pitch 1 is housed.

Chris starting up by using a solid face just to the right of the chimney.

Just above the solid rock, Chris seen at a nice ledge before being forced into the chimney proper.

View down at my progress up the first 20 feet.

More stemming to come.

View down again, just before leaving the chimney to traverse a ledge. Like my ankle tan lines?

Looking back across the ledge toward the chimney. Past me is an unpictured Class 4 5-foot down-climb and then a short climb to get to where Chris is.

View at Chris at his makeshift belay station. I recommend just continuing past here by climbing the arete just above his head.

Close-up of the belay station, which turned out to be an avoidable stop. Matt is continuing up to the better anchor point a few feet higher, a large boulder.

On the right is what seems to be standard anchor boulder used for the top of Pitch 1. We replaced the webbing later on our descent.

View back down toward the boulder with webbing, the chimney seen on the right. We didn't come up the top of the chimney because it was too steep and loose.

Past the boulder, the very exposed Pitch 2. My friends built a pile of rocks seen on the left that was used to get to the ledge with two huecos and then pull the lip above.

After some more light climbing and Class 2/3, I arrived at the top of Pitch 2, a nice ledge with an easy walk-off to the top of the face.

Now at the top of the second layer of the Montezuma Head cake, a nice grassy slope. The 3rd pitch is on the left.

Chris starting up Pitch 3, me belaying. He's on the Class 3/4 part to gain the ledge.

Chris on the ledge about to make the step-across move.

Along the ledge just before the step-across move.

At the top of Pitch 3, likely optional to skip this anchor station and continue, but maybe not particularly safe. Matt is starting out on a short Class 2+ move to gain the next horizontal ledge.

View back along the wide and comfortable ledge, Chris seen at the top of Pitch 3 behind.

Past the wide ledge, a nice Class 4 dihedral.

Past the Class 4 move, a vertical face to get to the top of Pitch 4.

I didn't linger at Pitch 4's anchor station, leaving Matt behind. This is a shot down at the top of Pitch 4. I scrambled on.

A shot of Matt on the steeper Class 3 (photo taken later, but good for reference).

Looking back at the more vertical Class 3 section that felt a bit silly to do unroped with as much exposure as there was. Past this was easier Class 2/3 to the summit.

Montezuma Head summit, view north.

Montezuma Head summit, view south.

Montezuma Head summit, view east.

Last bit of Class 2/3 to the summit.

Rappelling off Pitch 3.

A shot back at Montezuma Head on the walk back.
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