Class 4 7.1 miles 2400 gain 5-7 hrs Loop Feb 28, 2020
Effort
Beauty
Personality
Solitude

Mescalito Loop GPX Track

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Mescalito is a small-looking bump nestled between Bridge Mountain and Juniper Peak, but it ended up being an unexpectedly long undertaking, and also one of my favorite routes in Red Rock Canyon. There are two standard routes up to Mescalito, a Class 4 route coming in from the north from North Fork of Pine Creek Canyon and a Class 3 route from the South Fork of Pine Creek Canyon. The Class 4 route is incredibly cool, and I recommend taking this as an ascent, while descending via the Class 3 route, which is pretty, though less fun.

Matt and I set out along the Pine Creek Canyon Trail, entering the North Fork and following a jumble of social trails before finally ending up in the creekbed. Lots of Class 2 boulder-hopping obstacles make the going slow, but the route-finding is fun and the canyon was lush with ferns and flowing water. The North Fork of Pine Creek Canyon is also known as Fern Canyon, and I can see why. We continued up the canyon and came to a dripping waterfall, where a Class 2 gully on the right avoided the fall and led to higher ground. This waterfall marked the end of the canyon boulder-hopping and the start of the next leg of the trip.

From the top of the waterfall we continued along the cliffs, following cairns and staying about a hundred feet above the creekbed until we noted a human-eroded social trail across the way (south). We took note of the route to come: it would ascend the human-eroded social trail up a steep slope, then climb a slab headwall, drop down into a gully, then reascend up to the Mescalito ridgeline. So, we started up the absurdly dangerous dirty social trail, where massive boulders were barely held in place by the sandy slope, and loose handholds kept us focused. I didn't enjoy this short section, and I recommend taking great care here. I might argue that this is Class 4 due to the obectively dangerous nature of it. Just after the steep slope, we got to the headwall slab, a Class 3+ endeavor that appears really scary from below. There are ample holds, and the climbing is really fun on solid sandstone. It's definitely a little intimidating, but one of my favorite short scramble sections I've ever encountered.

From the top of the slab we dropped down into a gully with some pretty sandstone rock swirls and a trickle of water, and ascended the south side, where we climbed a short Class 4 crack and then did some zig-zagging up the Class 2/3 slabs on typical Red Rock ledges. The views back down the way we came were dizzying and incredible. The route continued to wrap around the rocky slabs, headed generally southeast toward the Mescalito ridgeline. Another Class 3 section led along a jagged ledge with a fair amount of exposure and great holds, and eventually we made it to the ridge. We noted our descend route to the south from here, but then headed east along the ridge.

We expected the ridge to be straightforward, but it's very time-consuming. A combination of route-finding, tricky Class 3 obstacles, and a saddle separating the ridgeline from the peak really took far more time than we suspected such a small peak as Mecalito could. As we started along the ridge heading east, lightly brushy Class 2 terrain brought us to the top of a descent. Carins marked a Class 3 route down to the right (south) to avoid difficult scrambling along the ridge crest. A social trail led around some rock outcroppings and back to the crest. A rock rib slab and some ledge-shuffling led down to a Class 3+ drop to the saddle that separated the ridge from Mescalito. From the saddle, a 50 foot descent to the right led to a short Class 4 move through a fissure in the rock. We initially descended too far here from the saddle, where cairns marked a likely much more difficult route. I removed this jitter from the attached map. Note that we spent a lot of time looking for a route up from the saddle, and the fissure I just mentioned was what I thought was the best option. Other trip reports read that this is fissure is a step-across from above, but I can't imagine what kind of crazy it would take to jump that gap, especially when it's not too difficult to scramble up. Once out of the fissure, we continued east along a massive ledge and entered a large crack, where cairns marked a nice route along the cliff face and up a long, red slab just below the summit. Some more Class 2 brought us up to finally attain the summit. What a journey.

We worked back along the Mescalito ridgeline to start the descent route to the south. It's mostly just a Class 2 slab descent with pretty views, nothing very notable except that I would recommended ensuring you are descending southwest rather than directly south, where crazy cliffs would bar access. If you're making moves harder than Class 2, there's an easier way. Cairns marked the route much of the time, but as long as you're descending diagonally, you'll likely have no trouble getting down. We encountered some Class 3 at the base of the descent as we entered the South Fork of Pine Creek Canyon. We took the canyon back and completed the loop, following the popular trail back to the trailhead.

PEAKS ON HIKE
Elevation (ft) / Prominence (ft)
Peaks on hike
Elevation
Prominence
1
Mescalito
5440 ft
240 rise

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Starting along the Pine Creek Trail. Mescalito is the baby-looking peak right of center.
Starting along the Pine Creek Trail. Mescalito is the baby-looking peak right of center.
Mescalito in the center. We would head in on the right (Fern Canyon) and come out on the left (South Fork Pine Creek Canyon).
Mescalito in the center. We would head in on the right (Fern Canyon) and come out on the left (South Fork Pine Creek Canyon).
Within Fern Canyon.
Within Fern Canyon.
Image 3 from gallery
Gorgeous scenery in this canyon.
Gorgeous scenery in this canyon.
Image 5 from gallery
A waterfall. Bypass on the right, where Matt is.
A waterfall. Bypass on the right, where Matt is.
Above the waterfall, view back down Fern Canyon.
Above the waterfall, view back down Fern Canyon.
Above the waterfall, view up the canyon. the route leads to the far right in this photo, crosses the drainage on the right, and ascends a loose slope to the ridge in the center of this photo. From here, the route continues along the ridge and up a Class 3+ slab, then traverses above the black trickling waterfall visible top left.
Above the waterfall, view up the canyon. the route leads to the far right in this photo, crosses the drainage on the right, and ascends a loose slope to the ridge in the center of this photo. From here, the route continues along the ridge and up a Class 3+ slab, then traverses above the black trickling waterfall visible top left.
Heading into the drainage, where we would ascend the scary dirty slope visible center.
Heading into the drainage, where we would ascend the scary dirty slope visible center.
Class 3 fun after the objectively loose, dangerous ascent sandy stuff.
Class 3 fun after the objectively loose, dangerous ascent sandy stuff.
Looking down the Class 3/4 back into the drainage we ascended from.
Looking down the Class 3/4 back into the drainage we ascended from.
At the top of the sketchy slope, view down into Fern Canyon.
At the top of the sketchy slope, view down into Fern Canyon.
Just after the sketchy Class 3/4 slope, we continued along the ridge. Class 3+ slab ahead.
Just after the sketchy Class 3/4 slope, we continued along the ridge. Class 3+ slab ahead.
It's intimidating from below.
It's intimidating from below.
Amply holds and not too steep. Somehow Class 3.
Amply holds and not too steep. Somehow Class 3.
View back down the fun slab.
View back down the fun slab.
Matt making moves on the slab.
Matt making moves on the slab.
One more of the slab, as we near the top. Fern Canyon visible center.
One more of the slab, as we near the top. Fern Canyon visible center.
Final bit of Class 2/3 at the top of the slab.
Final bit of Class 2/3 at the top of the slab.
After the slab, view toward the next drainage. We would descend to the trees on the right, the ascend and head left.
After the slab, view toward the next drainage. We would descend to the trees on the right, the ascend and head left.
Minor drainage crossing.
Minor drainage crossing.
Class 3 stuff to get out of the drainage and continue toward the Mescalito ridgeline.
Class 3 stuff to get out of the drainage and continue toward the Mescalito ridgeline.
Ample cairns marked the route along the typical Red Rock Canyon ledges.
Ample cairns marked the route along the typical Red Rock Canyon ledges.
Looking back as we continue to ascend. You can see the Class 3+ slabs we ascended in the center of this photo.
Looking back as we continue to ascend. You can see the Class 3+ slabs we ascended in the center of this photo.
Class 2 along the slopes/ledges. Mescalito visible in the center.
Class 2 along the slopes/ledges. Mescalito visible in the center.
Class 3 broken blocky ledges just before the ridgeline.
Class 3 broken blocky ledges just before the ridgeline.
Along the Mescalito ridgeline, Juniper Peak and Rainbow Wall visible top right.
Along the Mescalito ridgeline, Juniper Peak and Rainbow Wall visible top right.
Dropping down cryptic terrain to the saddle separating the ridge from Mescalito. Mescalito visible ahead.
Dropping down cryptic terrain to the saddle separating the ridge from Mescalito. Mescalito visible ahead.
Class 3 somewhat tricky route-finding to avoid scary stuff on the ridge crest. Saddle visible below.
Class 3 somewhat tricky route-finding to avoid scary stuff on the ridge crest. Saddle visible below.
Descending some cryptic stuff along the ridge, as we near the saddle.
Descending some cryptic stuff along the ridge, as we near the saddle.
Image 31 from gallery
Saddle visible above Matt. We were searching for a route up from the saddle, which required dropping down to the right from the saddle. We located a fissure, which others use as a "step-across" from above. We decided to make a Class 4 move from below rather than the dangerous step. The fissure is visible just right of Matt in this photo.
Saddle visible above Matt. We were searching for a route up from the saddle, which required dropping down to the right from the saddle. We located a fissure, which others use as a "step-across" from above. We decided to make a Class 4 move from below rather than the dangerous step. The fissure is visible just right of Matt in this photo.
Class 4 fissure. Just past the fissure is a large crack we scrambled through.
Class 4 fissure. Just past the fissure is a large crack we scrambled through.
Looking back at the crack on the right.
Looking back at the crack on the right.
Class 2 slabs.
Class 2 slabs.
Looking back.
Looking back.
More Class 2 slabs as we ascend to Mescalito from the left in this photo.
More Class 2 slabs as we ascend to Mescalito from the left in this photo.
Mescalito summit, view toward the mouth of Pine Creek Canyon.
Mescalito summit, view toward the mouth of Pine Creek Canyon.
Back at the saddle at the junction with the Class 3 descent route into the South Fork of Pine Creek.
Back at the saddle at the junction with the Class 3 descent route into the South Fork of Pine Creek.
Class 2/3 stuff on the descent.
Class 2/3 stuff on the descent.
We descended diagonally. There were cairns, but not as many as we expected.
We descended diagonally. There were cairns, but not as many as we expected.
Working along ledges and other Class 2 onbstacles.
Working along ledges and other Class 2 onbstacles.
Looking back the way we came, South Fork of Pine Creek visible on the right.
Looking back the way we came, South Fork of Pine Creek visible on the right.
Class 3 down into the canyon.
Class 3 down into the canyon.
We followed Pine Creek Canyon back, lots of boulder-hopping.
We followed Pine Creek Canyon back, lots of boulder-hopping.
Image 46 from gallery
Image 47 from gallery
Along the official trail, which we took back to the car.
Along the official trail, which we took back to the car.

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Hire/refer me as a web developer or send me a few bucks if you find my site useful. I’m not sponsored, so all fees are out-of-pocket and my time preparing trip reports is unpaid. I really appreciate it!