Humphreys Peak in Coconino National Forest, AZ

Hike Humphreys Peak Coconino National Forest, AZ

Class 1 10.1 miles 3300 gain 4-6 hrs Out + Back Aug 18, 2023
Effort
Beauty
Personality
Solitude

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Being the wildly famous high point of Arizona, Humphreys Peak is a popular destination for nearby Flagstaff AZ and for anyone beyond looking to reach the tippy-top of the San Francisco Peaks. The most commonly used trail for accessing the summit is the Humpreys Peak Trail, which begins from the Arizona Snowbowl. I hiked Humpreys Peak in May 2014, so many years ago that I wanted to revisit this ancient volcano using this popular route. Like the majority of hikes on this extended summer peakbagging trip, I started early to avoid poor weather only to get rained on anyway and then granted unexpected blue skies for the rest of the day. At least the result was that I saw a rainbow and avoided the crowds!

The Arizona Snowbowl is a prominent ski resort with a large paved parking lot used as a trailhead for summer hiking, so the start of the Humpreys Peak Trail well-marked. The hike begins through a sweeping meadow for a half mile before entering a dense coniferous forest. Ascending gently, the trail switchbacks widely and the initial ambiance is really peaceful, especially today since I was hiking before a storm and the sunlight was softened by thick cloud-cover. A sign marked the boundary of the Kachina Peaks Wilderness shortly after starting. The forest is surprisingly lush, the floor covered in decomposing trees and punctuated by bright green undergrowth. Often, little plants creep onto the edges of the wide trail. Although there are lots of embedded roots and rocks that are slippery when wet, the trail is in great shape. Considering that people complain about the rocks quite a bit, I should note my judgment of the rockiness is likely skewed and quite subjective.

Almost imperceptibly, the trail gets a bit more steep as it ascends the west slope of Humpreys Peak. There are a couple of talus fields that are crossed easily due to significant trail construction. The trail begins to wrap east toward the saddle separating Humphreys Peak from its neighbor, Agassiz Peak. Here there are intermittent glimpses of the flat landscape surrounding the San Francisco Peaks far below, seen through gaps in the pines strewn across the slope. The trail begins to ascend more steeply as it nears the saddle, switchbacking on the volcanic talus with more vigor. I passed a trail sign with warnings to stay on the trail to preserve fragile plants, and that camping above a certain altitude is not permitted.

From the saddle I could see the lovely Inner Basin to the east, as well as Humphreys Peak at the end of the ridgeline to the north. It might be tempting to hike up to Agassiz Peak, but note that doing so is illegal when the ridge is not snow-covered. The clouds were scaring me now even though there wasn't any thunder just yet, so I pushed on hurriedly. Eroded trails that stray from the official trail makes the correct route a little tricky to find. Generally, the trail ascends a bit below the ridge crest and if you find you're not on a wide and obvious route, head back and look again. I thought it was odd the trail wasn't built along the crest, but I'm sure there's a reason for that choice. A couple of short rocky sections might warrant a low Class 2 scramble rating, but really they're just obstacels along the trail. It's mostly just a steep hike that mashes together sharp volcanic talus with loose pebble debris.

The Humphreys Peak Trail ascends to a false summit, and from this point onward the trail finally follows the ridgeline proper and includes the much-awaited consistent views toward the other peaks of the San Francisco Peaks ridgeline. A final slope to Humphreys Peak is notoriously windy, and I stupidly left a warm layer in the car. I snagged the summit and immediately scurried back off. On my way down, the sun came out so I was happy to get a different vibe through the forest. An excellent ending to a long summer trip, it was probably about time to take off my mountain legs for a while. *cries*

PEAKS ON HIKE
Elevation (ft) / Prominence (ft)
Peaks on hike
Elevation
Prominence
1
Humphreys Peak
12633 ft
6039 rise

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Looking back toward the Arizona Snowbowl parking lot. The trail begins through a meadow.
Looking back toward the Arizona Snowbowl parking lot. The trail begins through a meadow.
The Humphreys Peak Trail then enters the forest, using wide and gradual switchbacks.
The Humphreys Peak Trail then enters the forest, using wide and gradual switchbacks.
Lush greenery, a beautiful hike.
Lush greenery, a beautiful hike.
Entering the Kachina Peaks Wilderness.
Entering the Kachina Peaks Wilderness.
It's a gorgeous hike, but the scenery is similar. I was enjoying the tree cover and gray sky vibes quite a bit.
It's a gorgeous hike, but the scenery is similar. I was enjoying the tree cover and gray sky vibes quite a bit.
Image 5 from gallery
Overall the trail was in excellent shape, but there were often embedded tree roots and wet rocks to be aware of.
Overall the trail was in excellent shape, but there were often embedded tree roots and wet rocks to be aware of.
Ascending through a talus field, but the trail has been constructed to keep the effort minimal.
Ascending through a talus field, but the trail has been constructed to keep the effort minimal.
Getting higher up on the switchbacks as the trail progresses up the west slope of Humphreys Peak.
Getting higher up on the switchbacks as the trail progresses up the west slope of Humphreys Peak.
I started getting hints of views into the distance when there were gaps in the trees.
I started getting hints of views into the distance when there were gaps in the trees.
The switchbacks seemed to become more steep the higher the Humphreys Peak Trail ascended.
The switchbacks seemed to become more steep the higher the Humphreys Peak Trail ascended.
Agassiz Peak seen in the distance. The switchbacks give way to one long section of mellow ascent to just below the saddle of Humphreys Peaks and Agassiz Peak.
Agassiz Peak seen in the distance. The switchbacks give way to one long section of mellow ascent to just below the saddle of Humphreys Peaks and Agassiz Peak.
View back.
View back.
A trail sign with warnings to stay on the trail and no camping.
A trail sign with warnings to stay on the trail and no camping.
The trail begins to ascend more steeply, switchbacking on the volcanic talus to gain the saddle.
The trail begins to ascend more steeply, switchbacking on the volcanic talus to gain the saddle.
Saddle ahead.
Saddle ahead.
I reached the saddle separating Humphreys Peak from Agassiz Peak.
I reached the saddle separating Humphreys Peak from Agassiz Peak.
A view into the Inner Basin from the saddle.
A view into the Inner Basin from the saddle.
Onward to Humphreys Peak, seen far right. The official trail becomes a little tricky to follow since there are eroded social trails everywhere.
Onward to Humphreys Peak, seen far right. The official trail becomes a little tricky to follow since there are eroded social trails everywhere.
Much more rocky and steep, the Humphreys Peak Trail follows the peak's south ridge.
Much more rocky and steep, the Humphreys Peak Trail follows the peak's south ridge.
Ascending below the ridge on the eroded trail.
Ascending below the ridge on the eroded trail.
View back, Agassiz Peak seen center.
View back, Agassiz Peak seen center.
The trail continues ascending just below the ridge crest.
The trail continues ascending just below the ridge crest.
Another shot back at my progress.
Another shot back at my progress.
Loose at times, minor obstacles popping in here and there.
Loose at times, minor obstacles popping in here and there.
Humphreys Peak seen ahead. The trail ascends to the ridge crest, a false summit.
Humphreys Peak seen ahead. The trail ascends to the ridge crest, a false summit.
Heading north to the summit.
Heading north to the summit.
View back along the ridgeline after reaching the false summit.
View back along the ridgeline after reaching the false summit.
View back along the ridgeline.
View back along the ridgeline.
Approaching the final slope to Humphreys Peak's summit.
Approaching the final slope to Humphreys Peak's summit.
Humphreys Peak, view into Inner Basin. Doyle, Fremont, Agassiz Peaks seen left to right.
Humphreys Peak, view into Inner Basin. Doyle, Fremont, Agassiz Peaks seen left to right.
Humphreys Peak summit.
Humphreys Peak summit.
Lovely views from Humphreys Peak.
Lovely views from Humphreys Peak.
A rainbow on my way back.
A rainbow on my way back.
Close-up toward Agassiz Peak and Fremont Peak.
Close-up toward Agassiz Peak and Fremont Peak.
Nicer lighting on my way back as the sun came out, Agassiz Peak seen center.
Nicer lighting on my way back as the sun came out, Agassiz Peak seen center.

Hire me or show me some love!

Hire/refer me as a web developer or send me a few bucks if you find my site useful. I’m not sponsored, so all fees are out-of-pocket and my time preparing trip reports is unpaid. I really appreciate it!