Ferns Nipple to George Benchmark Traverse in Capitol Reef National Park, UT

Hike Ferns Nipple to George Benchmark Traverse Capitol Reef National Park, UT

Class 4 14.4 miles 4500 gain 7-10 hrs Shuttle May 22, 2023
Effort
Beauty
Personality
Solitude

Ferns Nipple to George Benchmark Traverse GPX Track

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This traverse within Capitol Reef National Park visits some of the most gorgeous scenery of the area by linking up a few backcountry peaks as it leads along the Waterpocket Fold monocline from Grand Wash to Capitol Gorge. With rain in the forecast, we decided to do the traverse from the north first so at least we could hopefully reach Ferns Nipple before being forced to turn around. Fortunately the weather held for the whole day, allowing us to enjoy this fantastic desert outing. We parked our end car at the head of Capitol Gorge here (38.20854, -111.19438). We originally thought we could drive down to the Golden Throne Trailhead, but the graded dirt road is closed indefinitely after some bad flash flooding in 2022, so we learned we would have to walk it on the way back later, adding a few miles to the day. We then shuttled our start car to the Cassidy Arch Trailhead, where we started down through Grand Wash.

We only hiked within Grand Wash for a short time before spotting a cairn on the right marking a surprisingly good social trail leading up a Class 2 slope out of Grand Wash. The slope brought us onto a sandstone ledge/bench higher up, where cairns guided us above Grand Wash and we could see people hiking below. A Class 3 move brought us up an obstacle along the ledge, and then we wrapped south along this now very wide ledge that denotes a change in sandstone layers. The slanted ramps we would be following were pretty difficult for my brain to comprehend, somehow forming lovely walkways that would weave in and out of four canyons total along the approach to Ferns Nipple. Following the cliff base, this ledge descended toward the first canyon that cuts through the cliffs, where the ledge formed a natural walkway beneath the drainage and brought us easily to the opposite side of the canyon and we could continue along the cliff base.

A cairn soon alerted us to leave this ledge and ascend to higher ground. The terrain is complex here, a series of zig-zags on smaller ledges and up Class 2/3 weaknesses leading to the sandstone layer above. It was overall well-cairned, so we didn't have trouble. We then emerged onto a slickrock section where we could see Cassidy Arch across Grand Wash. Then Ferns Nipple came into view, and we followed another major ledge as it wrapped beneath a sheer cliff face and progressively weaved in and out of two more canyons, the ledge angled downward slightly as a descent toward the canyons, then slightly angled upward as we left each canyon watercourse. At the fourth canyon weave for the route, a cairn directed us to scramble up Class 2/3 boulders within the break in the cliff, and then pull a Class 3 move on a minor dryfall. More fun Class 2/3 led to higher ground.

Now above all the ledge wrapping and cairn-assisted route-finding, we ascended on Class 2 slickrock toward Ferns Nipple, which came back into view after a few hundred feet and was now directly in front of us. Ahead was the dome-like windswept sandstone surrounding the summit. Here I recommend keeping to the right to avoid the steepest stuff, then head directly toward the "nipple". The sandstone is lumpy, and we found ourselves zig-zagging up the slope to keep the ascent route to the summit block base at Class 3. Once at the base, a Class 4 seam seemed the most promising option, but the easier option is to just take the main northen ridge crest (Class 3/4). From Ferns Nipple's summit we could see the remainder of the peaks on our route, still quite an undertaking to come.

Peak 6920 was the next on our list, but it was disconnected from the main ridge traverse. Knowing it's unlikely we'll be back to go for it if we skipped it today, we decided it was a worthwhile second objective. We backtracked from Ferns Nipple and headed around its east side in order to head toward Peak 6920. Planning ahead, we noted Peak 6920's west face was sheer, but had a promising-looking gully in its center. It was unclear how difficult the gully would be from this far, but it seemed to be the most reasonable and direect route to reach the summit. The descent from Ferns Nipple required a bit of route-finding on complex sandstone, lots of little cliffs and ledges forcing us to plan in advance and backtrack a couple of times.

Once at the base of Peak 6920, we decided to give the gully we'd spotted a try. A steep Class 2 talus slope led to the crux, a Class 4 high-angle slab that I wasn't happy about. My friends dropped me some webbing. Alternatively, rather than use the Class 4 option we took, you could wrap around on the left of the west face of Peak 6920 (purple on my attached map) and use a Class 2/3 route, though it's longer. This route is compliments of my friend Whiley, who provided that route segment track.

Once above the Class 4 move (or longer alternative workaround), we used a steep Class 2/3 slope to gain the summit ridge of Peak 6920. The high point was on the right, despite the left seeming taller at first, and the small summit block required a Class 3 move. We backtracked from Peak 6920, then started the process pof navigating complex terrain to get back to the main ridge south of Ferns Nipple. We took a wide sandstone rib initially, but the rib ended in a Class 3 downclimb with some light exposure. I don't know if there was an easier option, but the canyons in the area looked either brushy or cliffy. This section can potentially be a bit of a route-finding hell, so I think we just got lucky (or maybe just missed something more obvious). You may want to consider just backtracking to the base of Ferns Nipple and route-finding along the main ridgeline.

Back on the main ridge, we could see Ferns Nipple behind us. Onward to Peak 7080, our third summit. The ridge leading toward its base is wide and angled slightly (since all of Capitol Reef is tilted at a mind-melting, unnatural angle), so it's hard to find the most efficient route, plus there were occasional gullies and canyons to wrap around. Choose your own adventure, but nothing should exceed Class 2 and all the bushwhacking is avoidable. The base of Peak 7080 has a ten-foot steep face, but we were able to gain the initial sandstone slab above the face using a lower-angle Class 2/3 spot. It was Class 2/3 from here to the summit. There are little cliffies that you can easily avoid along the way. From the Peak 7080 summit, we got an incredible view toward George Benchmark's sheer north face.

We backtracked from Peak 7080 and continued descending toward its saddle with George Benchmark, where we located a very fortunate Class 2 descent on a sandstone rib, encountering a single Class 3 move near the bottom. If this were much more high-angle, we would have had to do a lengthier work-around since this was the only nearby resonable spot to get down. From the saddle, we took a little gully/canyon to overcome the initial cliff band at George Benchmark's base. Some Class 2 hiking led to a Class 3 headwall, heavily featured and quite fun. This headwall brought us to the north side of George Benchmark, where some tame hiking led to a Class 2 slope. A couple of hundred feet of light scrambling and we were on the summit of George Benchmark, where we got more absolutely fantastic views of Capitol Reef National Park and a unique persepective of the Waterpocket Fold.

After backtracking from George Benchmark, we located a sandy wash we could use to continue south. I highly recommend reaching this wash since the terrain surrounding the wash is lumpy and riddled with little cacti as well as tons of cryptobiotic soil. We followed the wash for a mile or so, and at its end we located a cairn which led us onto a good social trail. Soon, Golden Throne came into view, but the social trail became difficult to follow. Now heading east, we descended along the wildly ramped reef. I recommend sticking to the sandstone ramp as much as possible. If you go too far left (north), you'll be on crypto-galore. However, too far right (south) and you'll end up getting cliffed-out at the bottom of the descent. Once we fully descended the ramp into the canyon below, we passed over the canyon at a key crossover, just before it drops. An obvious social trail continues on the opposite side of the canyon, gaining elevation as it follows yet another sandstone ramp. This social trail was overall easy to follow with a couple of minor exceptions, ultimately leading to the official end of the Golden Throne Trail.

We reached the end of the Golden Throne Trail and started down along this beautiful official NPS trail, currently devoid of people since the Capitol Gorge Road is closed and most hikers don't want to add miles of road walking to the day. The trail was constructed along ledges/benches like much of our ascent route to Ferns Nipple had been, the sandstone formations creating lovely low-angle ramps for foot traffic. After enjoying the trail, Capitol Gorge came into view below and the trail weaved down to it. The trailhead had no water source, so that was a bummer since we were totally out of water. Maybe hiking in the desert in late May isn't a great idea?

Capitol Gorge is a deep canyon road walk that initially we were annoyed we'd have to hike, but without cars streaming by we actually thought it was a lovely walk full of wildflowers between its sheer cliff faces. We arrived at the head of Capitol Gorge, where we'd parked our shuttle car.

PEAKS ON HIKE
Elevation (ft) / Prominence (ft)
Peaks on hike
Elevation
Prominence
1
Ferns Nipple
7065 ft
305 rise
2
Peak 6920
6920 ft
440 rise
3
Peak 7080
7080 ft
320 rise
4
George Benchmark
7289 ft
1289 rise

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Starting down the Grand Wash Trail. We will soon be on the ledge above in the center of the face ahead.
Starting down the Grand Wash Trail. We will soon be on the ledge above in the center of the face ahead.
Heading down the Grand Wash Trail.
Heading down the Grand Wash Trail.
A social trail leads out of Grand Wash on the right.
A social trail leads out of Grand Wash on the right.
Class 2 up to a convenient ledge above Grand Wash.
Class 2 up to a convenient ledge above Grand Wash.
Class 3 move along the ledge.
Class 3 move along the ledge.
The ledge wraps us safely around the base of the cliffs. Here we are about to cross over the first canyon.
The ledge wraps us safely around the base of the cliffs. Here we are about to cross over the first canyon.
Past the first canyon, Class 2 to gain some elevation.
Past the first canyon, Class 2 to gain some elevation.
The terrain would be tricky if not for cairns.
The terrain would be tricky if not for cairns.
Continuing on another ledge system.
Continuing on another ledge system.
View back, Grand Wash seen far right.
View back, Grand Wash seen far right.
Some more Class 2/3 route-finding.
Some more Class 2/3 route-finding.
A higher ledge.
A higher ledge.
A Class 3 lip.
A Class 3 lip.
And then we emerged onto a slickrock section.
And then we emerged onto a slickrock section.
View back, Grand Wash below on the left.
View back, Grand Wash below on the left.
Close-up toward Cassidy Arch across the canyon.
Close-up toward Cassidy Arch across the canyon.
Wrapping around on a significant ledge/bench that wraps us much of the way toward Ferns Nipple, seen center.
Wrapping around on a significant ledge/bench that wraps us much of the way toward Ferns Nipple, seen center.
Beautiful open view toward the steep cliff faces.
Beautiful open view toward the steep cliff faces.
Another canyon avoidance using the ledge/bench. The ledge is angled downard on the way to the canyons, then ascends slightly after passing each canyon.
Another canyon avoidance using the ledge/bench. The ledge is angled downard on the way to the canyons, then ascends slightly after passing each canyon.
Third canyon we passed over.
Third canyon we passed over.
Other side of the canyon, still ascending.
Other side of the canyon, still ascending.
Wrapping around on the ledge.
Wrapping around on the ledge.
At the fourth major canyon, we started up a bouldery gully, leaving the ledge/bench.
At the fourth major canyon, we started up a bouldery gully, leaving the ledge/bench.
Class 3 within the bouldery gully.
Class 3 within the bouldery gully.
Ascending to higher ground.
Ascending to higher ground.
View back the way we came.
View back the way we came.
Class 2/3 leading south through open slickrock country.
Class 2/3 leading south through open slickrock country.
A view back, Grand Wash obscured in the center.
A view back, Grand Wash obscured in the center.
Ferns Nipple ahead.
Ferns Nipple ahead.
Class 2/3 to the base of Ferns Nipple.
Class 2/3 to the base of Ferns Nipple.
Ferns Nipple. I recommend keeping to the right to avoid the steepest stuff, then head to the "nipple".
Ferns Nipple. I recommend keeping to the right to avoid the steepest stuff, then head to the "nipple".
Class 2 and some Class 3 on the way up.
Class 2 and some Class 3 on the way up.
Nearing the summit, view back.
Nearing the summit, view back.
Class 3/4 along the north ridge.
Class 3/4 along the north ridge.
View up at the north ridge of Ferns Nipple, Class 3/4.
View up at the north ridge of Ferns Nipple, Class 3/4.
View down the north ridge.
View down the north ridge.
Matt at the top of the north ridge. Summit directly behind me.
Matt at the top of the north ridge. Summit directly behind me.
View north into Grand Wash.
View north into Grand Wash.
View south toward the traverse to come.
View south toward the traverse to come.
Optional Class 4 seam. I recommend just using the narrow north ridge.
Optional Class 4 seam. I recommend just using the narrow north ridge.
We backtracked from Ferns Nipple and headed around its east face in order to head toward Peak 6920 (seen right). Our ascent is the gully seen center of this photo, which has a Class 4 high-angle slab. Alternatively, you could wrap around on the left and use a Class 2/3 route, though it's longer.
We backtracked from Ferns Nipple and headed around its east face in order to head toward Peak 6920 (seen right). Our ascent is the gully seen center of this photo, which has a Class 4 high-angle slab. Alternatively, you could wrap around on the left and use a Class 2/3 route, though it's longer.
We chose to use the gully seen right of center.
We chose to use the gully seen right of center.
Descending from Ferns Nipple on somewhat complex terrain.
Descending from Ferns Nipple on somewhat complex terrain.
Ascending to the gully.
Ascending to the gully.
Matt on the Class 4 slab. They dropped me webbing, thankfully. I didn't like how steep it was.
Matt on the Class 4 slab. They dropped me webbing, thankfully. I didn't like how steep it was.
Above the Class 4 move, view toward Ferns Nipple.
Above the Class 4 move, view toward Ferns Nipple.
Above the move, ascending to the summit of Peak 6920 (top right out of frame). We used the slope seen center for our ascent.
Above the move, ascending to the summit of Peak 6920 (top right out of frame). We used the slope seen center for our ascent.
Approaching Peak 6920's summit.
Approaching Peak 6920's summit.
Class 3 summit block of Peak 6920.
Class 3 summit block of Peak 6920.
View south toward Peak 7080 and George Benchmark.
View south toward Peak 7080 and George Benchmark.
We backtracked from Peak 6920, then navigated complex terrain to get back to the main ridge south of Ferns Nipple. We took a wide sandstone rib initially.
We backtracked from Peak 6920, then navigated complex terrain to get back to the main ridge south of Ferns Nipple. We took a wide sandstone rib initially.
The rib ended in a Class 3 down-climb. I don't know if there was an easier option, but the canyons in the area looked either brushy or cliffy. You may want to consider just backtracking to the base of Ferns Nipple and route-finding along the main ridgeline.
The rib ended in a Class 3 down-climb. I don't know if there was an easier option, but the canyons in the area looked either brushy or cliffy. You may want to consider just backtracking to the base of Ferns Nipple and route-finding along the main ridgeline.
View back toward the wide rib we just had to descend from, making progress up to the main ridge.
View back toward the wide rib we just had to descend from, making progress up to the main ridge.
Back on the main ridge. Ferns Nipple seen left, Peak 6920 seen right.
Back on the main ridge. Ferns Nipple seen left, Peak 6920 seen right.
Another shot back toward Ferns Nipple as we make our way to Peak 7080. The ridge is wide enough that it's hard to find the most efficient route, plus there were occasional gullies and canyons to wrap around.
Another shot back toward Ferns Nipple as we make our way to Peak 7080. The ridge is wide enough that it's hard to find the most efficient route, plus there were occasional gullies and canyons to wrap around.
Ascending to Peak 7080, left of center.
Ascending to Peak 7080, left of center.
Peak 7080 on the right.
Peak 7080 on the right.
Class 2/3 to gain the sandstone slab at Peak 7080's base.
Class 2/3 to gain the sandstone slab at Peak 7080's base.
Class 2/3 from here to the summit.
Class 2/3 from here to the summit.
View back as we near the summit of Peak 7080. Ferns Nipple seen far right.
View back as we near the summit of Peak 7080. Ferns Nipple seen far right.
Peak 7080 summit, view toward George Benchmark. What an impressive north face!
Peak 7080 summit, view toward George Benchmark. What an impressive north face!
View back toward Peak 7080 (far right), and Ferns Nipple (far left).
View back toward Peak 7080 (far right), and Ferns Nipple (far left).
So far from Peak 7080 the terrain was pretty tame, but then we reached a Class 2 descent, followed by a Class 3 move to reach the saddle separating the two. George Benchmark seen center.
So far from Peak 7080 the terrain was pretty tame, but then we reached a Class 2 descent, followed by a Class 3 move to reach the saddle separating the two. George Benchmark seen center.
From the saddle, we took the little gully/canyon seen center.
From the saddle, we took the little gully/canyon seen center.
Class 2 up the gully.
Class 2 up the gully.
George Benchmark ahead. We continued directly toward it initially, Class 2/3.
George Benchmark ahead. We continued directly toward it initially, Class 2/3.
A fun, featured Class 3 face to gain the north side of George Benchmark.
A fun, featured Class 3 face to gain the north side of George Benchmark.
View down at the Class 3.
View down at the Class 3.
Above the Class 3, view back.
Above the Class 3, view back.
We navigated a Class 2 slope to gain the summit ridge.
We navigated a Class 2 slope to gain the summit ridge.
Summit ridge leading to George Benchmark.
Summit ridge leading to George Benchmark.
George Benchmark summit, view north toward Ferns Nipple.
George Benchmark summit, view north toward Ferns Nipple.
George Benchmark summit, view south along Capitol Reef.
George Benchmark summit, view south along Capitol Reef.
We located a sandy wash after backtracking from George Benchmark. This is a view back, George Benchmark seen top right.
We located a sandy wash after backtracking from George Benchmark. This is a view back, George Benchmark seen top right.
Hiking for a while through the wash.
Hiking for a while through the wash.
At the end of the wash, a cairn marked the start of a social trail.
At the end of the wash, a cairn marked the start of a social trail.
Golden Throne seen center. The social trail continued for a time before becoming difficult to follow. I recommend sticking to a low-angle sandstone ramp as much as possible. Venturing to the left results in lots of cryptobiotic soil avoidance.
Golden Throne seen center. The social trail continued for a time before becoming difficult to follow. I recommend sticking to a low-angle sandstone ramp as much as possible. Venturing to the left results in lots of cryptobiotic soil avoidance.
Golden Throne seen top right as we descend. It's important not to end up too far to the right (south) as you descend since you'll get cliffed-out at the bottom.
Golden Throne seen top right as we descend. It's important not to end up too far to the right (south) as you descend since you'll get cliffed-out at the bottom.
View back up. We came from the top left in this photo.
View back up. We came from the top left in this photo.
A key crossover before a canyon drops. If you were too far south, you'll be hit with a cliff. An obvious social trail continues past here.
A key crossover before a canyon drops. If you were too far south, you'll be hit with a cliff. An obvious social trail continues past here.
View back at the key canyon crossover.
View back at the key canyon crossover.
Along a social trail leading to the end of the official Golden Throne Trail.
Along a social trail leading to the end of the official Golden Throne Trail.
View toward Golden Throne.
View toward Golden Throne.
End of Golden Throne Trail. We would take the trail back.
End of Golden Throne Trail. We would take the trail back.
Along the Golden Throne Trail, a beautiful hike.
Along the Golden Throne Trail, a beautiful hike.
Image 85 from gallery
The trail was constructed along ledges/benches like much of our ascent route to Ferns Nipple had been. The sandstone formations really were conducive to foot traffic.
The trail was constructed along ledges/benches like much of our ascent route to Ferns Nipple had been. The sandstone formations really were conducive to foot traffic.
Image 87 from gallery
View back, Golden Throne seen above.
View back, Golden Throne seen above.
The Golden Throne Trail weaves in and out of canyons.
The Golden Throne Trail weaves in and out of canyons.
Image 90 from gallery
Beautiful features on the opposite side of Capitol Gorge.
Beautiful features on the opposite side of Capitol Gorge.
Capitol Gorge seen below.
Capitol Gorge seen below.
Image 93 from gallery
Descending to Capitol Gorge.
Descending to Capitol Gorge.
The start of the Golden Throne Trail. Since the road was closed, we walked back a few miles along the road back to the upper trailhead.
The start of the Golden Throne Trail. Since the road was closed, we walked back a few miles along the road back to the upper trailhead.
Golden Throne seen from within Capitol Gorge.
Golden Throne seen from within Capitol Gorge.
The walls were beautiful and it was actually a lovely road walk.
The walls were beautiful and it was actually a lovely road walk.
Capitol Gorge.
Capitol Gorge.
We arrived at the head of Capitol Gorge, where we'd parked our shuttle car.
We arrived at the head of Capitol Gorge, where we'd parked our shuttle car.

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