Elephant Tusk via Tortuga Mountain in Big Bend National Park, TX

Hike Elephant Tusk via Tortuga Mountain Big Bend National Park, TX

Class 4 17.1 miles 4700 gain 8-11 hrs Out + Back Feb 27, 2022
Effort
Beauty
Personality
Solitude

Elephant Tusk via Tortuga Mountain GPX Track

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Elephant Tusk is an iconic peak in Big Bend National Park, but it's usually only seen from the South Rim by Chisos Basin hikers or from the dirt roads surrounding the peak. Despite being so epic-looking, I might have already lied to you by calling it iconic. From a visual and scrambling perspective, it should be, but very few people would even notice it on the skyline, and even fewer know its name. I don't believe the summit sees many ascents, likely because there is very little information about the peak, as far as I could find. This incredible volcanic plug pokes into the sky and caught my attention almost immediately after I spotted it on a topo map. For my final day in Big Bend, I knew I had to at least attempt this massive hunk of rock, or it would nag at me for years.

My adventure began by attempting to get to the closest trailhead I could find, which would start from the Elephant Tusk Campground (29.1269, -103.20707) and follow the Elephant Tusk Trail. However, when I reached the start of Black Gap Road, I was almost immediately shut down by its terrible condition. Should I walk this 5-mile stretch of bad road just to get to the trailhead? That sounded ridiculous. I bitterly took a moment to finish my coffee and decide what to do. Despite the lack of cell reception, I had fortunately downloaded a map of the area and could inspect the trail system to formulate an alternative plan. What I settled on is the route outlined here, which follows a combination of trails and off-trail travel to reach the base of Elephant Tusk. This route adds about 6 miles and at least 1,000 feet of vertical gain to the day, but it's a much more accessible route and has the bonus of an extra summit, Tortuga Mountain. Plus, the Elephant Tusk Trail coming from the south seemed pretty boring and flat, while this one was a bit more adventurous and interesting. I thought it worked out quite well.

I drove up Juniper Canyon Road to its end (passable by Crossover vehicles), where I could start my hike along the Dodson Trail. I spent some of my day yesterday on the western portion of the Dodson Trail to reach Picacho Peak, so it felt fitting to check out the eastern portion today. The Dodson Trail was in good shape overall, and it seems to get a bit of traffic. I passed three parties in total, all backpackers. The trail descends gradually to the south before turning and ascending to the west as it follows a drainage. I wouldn't say it's a particularly remarkable hike to this point, but I was happy to have a nice warm-up after getting my butt kicked by the sun yesterday. The Dodson Trail took its sweet time up to a small saddle directly north of Tortuga Mountain, where the views finally opened up a bit.

From this small saddle the Dodson Trail begins to descend again to the west, but that wasn't where I was headed. Instead, my goal now was to reach the Elephant Tusk Trail to the south. I supposed I could continue along the Dodson Trail and pick up the Elephant Tusk Trail in a couple of miles, but this would add a significant distance to the day. I chose instead to leave the trail and head south toward Tortuga Mountain. From there, I could drop down and join the Elephant Tusk Trail. The brush along the northern ridge of Tortuga Mountain wasn't bad, though the last few hundred feet to its summit was a bit steep and had some light Class 2 terrain. I was rewarded with my first unobstructed view of Elephant Tusk, still miles away. I gawked at its shadowy form, feeling that giddy mixture of excitement and fear.

I dropped off the steep Class 2 west ridge of Tortuga Mountain and ended up on the Elephant Tusk Trail, which was essentially just a watercourse. I followed the watercourse south and then kept right (west) at a confluence. According to my topo map in-hand, the Elephant Tusk Trail should be right where I was standing, but it wasn't. The official Big Bend National Park map doesn't include the Elephant Tusk Trail, but other resources showed that it does. This could mean it's no longer maintained, my slow brain started to realize, and I might be bushwhacking for miles. Without getting too annoyed just yet, I spent a few minutes walking back and forth in the watercourse looking for the trail, eventually (and with relief) locating it on the left, marked by a cairn. I marked this spot on my attached map.

While not as pleasant as the Dodson Trail, the Elephant Tusk Trail was mostly easy to follow. At points it disappeared completely, but cairns helped guide me, and overall I didn't get too scratched up from encroaching cacti and brush. The trail led up to a minor saddle, south along a slope, and then descended into a significant drainage. This drainage had a short, narrow section as well as some interesting walls. Once the wash opened up and I could see Elephant Tusk clearly ahead of me, I left the drainage and ascended south up toward the peak's northern ridge.

Although my approach so far was non-standard, I would soon merge with what I could gather online about the actual climb (mostly from Gerry Roach). There's a massive chute on the northeast side of Elephant Tusk that I couldn't see yet since I was coming from the north, so I side-hilled on scree at the base of the peak's northern cliffs for a few hundred feet until this chute came into view. Some Class 2 scree slogging took me up the progressively steeper and more narrow chute. I noted significant erosion, likely from other parties and sheep, which made me feel better. At the top of the scree slope, the chute narrowed into a tighter section at the base of the crux. I looked up at this crux, a Class 4 chimney-like set of moves that would last around 25 feet. Fortunately it's not exposed, and I was confident I could stem my way up. The chimney is slightly flared out, so I was unable to stem the whole way, switching to climbing toward the top. The rock quality isn't horrible, but I don't recommend blindy trusting anything. Even larger holds that seem solid were certainly not, wiggling upon receiving any pressure. At the top of the chimney is a notch where a belay station was rigged with plenty of webbing: messy, but safe-looking (as of February 2022).

The fun had just begun! Past the crux, I started up the steep northern ridge and ascended about 400 feet of Class 2/2+ with occasional Class 3 mixed in. The micro-route-finding was fun, and more than once I had to explore other potential options to avoid scarier, unnecessary moves. There may be easier options on the right, but it seemed looser and dirtier, and I was enjoying myself on the ridgeline. The rock quality is overall not excellent, but the holds were good where I needed them. However, it's a very steep few hundred feet, and while not exactly exposed, a fall could be quite severe. As I neared the top of the ridge, I came across what I felt was a second crux, where a series of Class 3 moves wrapped to the right around a significant outcropping.

I made it to the final bit of fun, a Class 2/2+ wannabe-knife-edge that stretched for a couple of hundred feet and led up to the summit. Now on the summit of Elephant Tusk, I took in the views and admired the many Big Bend National Park peaks from this unique vantage point. I felt I had achieved the majority of the things I wanted to do in the park for this trip, and this felt like an excellent finale.

I backtracked from Elephant Tusk's northern ridge, usually taking the exact same route as on the way up, but I was able to cut out a few Class 2/3 moves here and there now that I was more familiar with the terrain. I'd still say the ridge is Class 3, and moving slowly is probably prudent.

After returning to the base of Tortuga Mountain, rather than reascend the peak, I decided to take a canyon to its west. Overall, there wasn't much brush, but there was a small section where a pretty little spring caused lots of vegetation growth that I needed to avoid. I made my way back up to the Dodson Trail and headed back to my car.

PEAKS ON HIKE
Elevation (ft) / Prominence (ft)
Peaks on hike
Elevation
Prominence
1
Tortuga Mountain
4747 ft
347 rise
2
Elephant Tusk
5249 ft
1369 rise

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Starting along the Dodson Trail. It leads to the center of this photo.
Starting along the Dodson Trail. It leads to the center of this photo.
View back toward Crown Mountain.
View back toward Crown Mountain.
Along the Dodson Trail as it ascends along a watercourse.
Along the Dodson Trail as it ascends along a watercourse.
Not particularly interesting for the first couple of miles.
Not particularly interesting for the first couple of miles.
Nearing a small saddle higher up. South Rim visible on the right.
Nearing a small saddle higher up. South Rim visible on the right.
View back along the Dodson Trail.
View back along the Dodson Trail.
At the small saddle, view west. I left the trail here and headed left to get to Tortuga Mountain.
At the small saddle, view west. I left the trail here and headed left to get to Tortuga Mountain.
Tortuga Mountain in the center, Elephant Tusk poking out behind it.
Tortuga Mountain in the center, Elephant Tusk poking out behind it.
Steeper section to get to Tortuga Mountain.
Steeper section to get to Tortuga Mountain.
View back along Tortuga Mountain's north ridge toward the South Rim of Big Bend.
View back along Tortuga Mountain's north ridge toward the South Rim of Big Bend.
Tortuga Mountain summit, view toward Elephant Tusk.
Tortuga Mountain summit, view toward Elephant Tusk.
Tortuga Mountain summit, view west. Picacho Peak is seen poking out on the right.
Tortuga Mountain summit, view west. Picacho Peak is seen poking out on the right.
Steep Class 2 descent from Tortuga Mountain.
Steep Class 2 descent from Tortuga Mountain.
Descending to the Elephant Tusk Trail, which is within the drainage below. The trail leads to the saddle in the center of this photo.
Descending to the Elephant Tusk Trail, which is within the drainage below. The trail leads to the saddle in the center of this photo.
View back up toward Tortuga Mountain after descending from its steep west ridge.
View back up toward Tortuga Mountain after descending from its steep west ridge.
Within the drainage housing the Elephant Tusk Trail, which will eventually lead up to the saddle in the center.
Within the drainage housing the Elephant Tusk Trail, which will eventually lead up to the saddle in the center.
View back toward Tortuga Mountain.
View back toward Tortuga Mountain.
After some poking around I found the Elephant Tusk Trail, marked by a cairn.
After some poking around I found the Elephant Tusk Trail, marked by a cairn.
View back toward the South Rim and Tortuga Mountain.
View back toward the South Rim and Tortuga Mountain.
Elephant Tusk still a bit away. The Elephant Tusk Trail leads along this slope for a bit.
Elephant Tusk still a bit away. The Elephant Tusk Trail leads along this slope for a bit.
Close-up toward Elephant Tusk.
Close-up toward Elephant Tusk.
Descending along the Elephant Tusk Trail into the drainage below.
Descending along the Elephant Tusk Trail into the drainage below.
Pretty formations within the drainage.
Pretty formations within the drainage.
A small spring.
A small spring.
Getting closer!
Getting closer!
A small section of narrows within the drainage along the Elephant Tusk Trail.
A small section of narrows within the drainage along the Elephant Tusk Trail.
Eventually the drainage opened up and Elephant Tusk was visible just ahead. The goal is to reach its north ridge, seen center. I left the trail and started up.
Eventually the drainage opened up and Elephant Tusk was visible just ahead. The goal is to reach its north ridge, seen center. I left the trail and started up.
Image 27 from gallery
Ascending to the minor saddle on the left, which marks the peak's north ridge.
Ascending to the minor saddle on the left, which marks the peak's north ridge.
View back the way I came, Tortuga Mountain visible center.
View back the way I came, Tortuga Mountain visible center.
A view toward the "standard" approach if I had a burly enough vehicle to take the Elephant Tusk Trail from the south.
A view toward the "standard" approach if I had a burly enough vehicle to take the Elephant Tusk Trail from the south.
On the north ridge. I side-hilled on scree on the left.
On the north ridge. I side-hilled on scree on the left.
The key chute became visible.
The key chute became visible.
View back along the scree I ascended. Tortuga Mountain washed out in the center.
View back along the scree I ascended. Tortuga Mountain washed out in the center.
Class 2 on scree/talus.
Class 2 on scree/talus.
The chute narrowed.
The chute narrowed.
View back down.
View back down.
At the top of the chute, the Class 4 crux.
At the top of the chute, the Class 4 crux.
View down the crux from about halfway up.
View down the crux from about halfway up.
Top of the crux at the notch, a messy belay station. I used some webbing to assist my descent later.
Top of the crux at the notch, a messy belay station. I used some webbing to assist my descent later.
Past the notch, starting up the north ridge.
Past the notch, starting up the north ridge.
Class 2/3.
Class 2/3.
View back down toward the notch, center.
View back down toward the notch, center.
Class 3 move that I avoided on the way down.
Class 3 move that I avoided on the way down.
Class 2/2+/3 for a few hundred feet.
Class 2/2+/3 for a few hundred feet.
Another shot back at my progress.
Another shot back at my progress.
More micro-route-finding. I found it best to stay as close to the crest (or just to its right) when possibe.
More micro-route-finding. I found it best to stay as close to the crest (or just to its right) when possibe.
Class 3.
Class 3.
View back down a Class 3 section.
View back down a Class 3 section.
Class 2/3 along Elephant Tusk's ridge.
Class 2/3 along Elephant Tusk's ridge.
View down a final Class 3 section that required wrapping around a rock outcropping.
View down a final Class 3 section that required wrapping around a rock outcropping.
On the final ridgeline.
On the final ridgeline.
Class 2+ wannabe-knife-edge.
Class 2+ wannabe-knife-edge.
View back along the ridge.
View back along the ridge.
Almost to the summit!
Almost to the summit!
Elephant Tusk summit, view north. South Rim visible top left.
Elephant Tusk summit, view north. South Rim visible top left.
Elephant Tusk summit, view southwest.
Elephant Tusk summit, view southwest.
Close-up toward Backbone Ridge and Punta de la Sierra.
Close-up toward Backbone Ridge and Punta de la Sierra.
Back at the base of Tortuga Mountain (seen top right), I started up the canyon on its west side.
Back at the base of Tortuga Mountain (seen top right), I started up the canyon on its west side.
Some cool formations in this canyon.
Some cool formations in this canyon.
A spring. I left the canyon briefly to avoid vegetation, but eventually made it back to the Dodson Trail.
A spring. I left the canyon briefly to avoid vegetation, but eventually made it back to the Dodson Trail.

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Hire/refer me as a web developer or send me a few bucks if you find my site useful. I’m not sponsored, so all fees are out-of-pocket and my time preparing trip reports is unpaid. I really appreciate it!