El Diente and Mount Wilson via Navajo Lake Trail in San Juan National Forest, CO

Hike El Diente and Mount Wilson via Navajo Lake Trail San Juan National Forest, CO

Class 4 15.8 miles 5300 gain 11-15 hrs Loop Aug 8, 2021
Effort
Beauty
Personality
Solitude

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Before you even start reading my trip report for this one, just know this is probably the least efficient route to get to Mount Wilson that exists. It includes the traverse from El Diente to Mount Wilson, but also a sustained, fun Class 4 ascent route to get to El Diente. It's more common that people approach these peaks and the traverse between them from the south via Kilpacker Basin, which seems far less pretty and interesting, and includes a steep descent from Mount Wilson on nasty terrain. That route would likely be a much shorter and less tiresome day. Matt and I enjoyed the Class 4 ascent to El Diente and the adventure it entailed, plus hiking past Navajo Lake was nicer than the much dryer-looking southern approach. Assuming you plan to do the route outlined in the attached map (north buttress of El Diente, traverse from El Diente to Mount Wilson, and then back down Mount Wilson's northern standard route), here goes.

I've read reports that the road coming in from the east is awful, but from the south through Dunton was well-graded, which was nice after my long-ass drive from Las Vegas. We set out along the Navajo Lake Trail, the wildfire smoke adding an interesting morning haze to the mostly meadowy approach landscape. After a couple of hours we made it to Navajo Lake, where trail crews had just finished reconstructing a trail that avoids the alpine grasses along the rim of Navajo Lake, instead redirecting hikers into the talus just north of the lake. The trail continues to ascend on the talus, but it's just easy walking since the rocks have all been placed (through likely the most tedious efforts imaginable) to create a trail to higher ground. Once we emerged onto flat ground, now out of the talus, we looked up toward El Diente.

I made a promise to myself that this Colorado trip won't have any Class 4 because I'm a bit tired of getting scared all the time in the mountains, but Matt convinced me to do the El Diente Traverse (hence today), and now he was about to convince me to attempt this Class 4 north buttress route to get to El Diente. I was feeling good, and agreed. We started south off the trail and boulder-hopped on Class 2 talus up the steepening slope. The rock became more loose and soon we were on Class 3. For the most part, we kept to the ridge crest, picking our way around loose boulders and slowly making our way up the extremely steep north face of El Diente. The route is consistently Class 2-3 until about 2/3 the way up, where the route became even more dangerous and very committing. I'll let photos below guide the route.

Once we made it to El Diente Peak, we took a long breather and agreed that if we got scared along the traverse, we could use one of the few bail points. However, we found the traverse from El Diente to Mount Wilson was trivial in comparison to the north buttress route we took. That's not to say the traverse is trivial; in fact, it's still quite dangerous. Though, we really enjoyed the Class 4 route from El Diente to Mount Wilson, which included lots of Class 2/3, a Class 4 headwall with solid rock, a mostly solid short knife edge, and plenty of micro-route-finding on dangerous terrain. Cairns marked the route when necessary and we got through the traverse much faster than anticipated. Photos below describe the route better.

Once we made it to the base of Mount Wilson, we discovered we still had some more serious scrambling to contend with. We made it to the northeast ridge of Mount Wilson, joining the standard northern route, and started along the crest to gain the summit. Whereas coming from the south would require only Class 3 to reach the summit, our route (and the standard northern route to Mount Wilson) requires Class 4. Matt went first, and after a long day of having our nerves twisted and adrenaline boosted, he backed off the Class 4, exposed final moves to the summit. We should have just committed and gone for the moves, but instead we attempted to find another route around the east face of Mount Wilson. I highly, highly recommend against doing this. It's steep and loose and horrifying and photos below might help deter you. Just take the standard route along the northeast ridge to get to Mount Wilson, and you can find photos of that specific move on other sites.

After reaching the summit of Mount Wilson, we backtracked and started down the long and tedious descent using the northern standard route. This involved Class 2/2+ talus on sometimes loose rock. Cairns led to the northeast and just below the ridge crest. It migh be tempting to descend immediately, but the rocks are loose and dangerous and it's better to just continue traversing northeast (see map). After a lot of boulder/talus-hopping, plus a couple of gullies to contend with, we found ourselves descending on a much more pleasant grassy slope using a social trail back into the valley housing Navajo Lake. Once off the talus (which honestly took less time than we thought it would) and completely off the grassy slope, we followed cairns through the alpine grasses and relocated the trail. We headed back to Navajo Lake along the trail and continued to our cars.

PEAKS ON HIKE
Elevation (ft) / Prominence (ft)
Peaks on hike
Elevation
Prominence
1
El Diente
14159 ft
239 rise
2
Mount Wilson
14246 ft
4024 rise

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Navajo Lake Trailhead.
Navajo Lake Trailhead.
The trail heads through the forest for a while, and it's really pretty.
The trail heads through the forest for a while, and it's really pretty.
The trail then emerges into meadows and the views would be really wonderful if not for the wildfire smoke. We did get lots of wildflowers though.
The trail then emerges into meadows and the views would be really wonderful if not for the wildfire smoke. We did get lots of wildflowers though.
A shot of Dolores Peak in the distance.
A shot of Dolores Peak in the distance.
The Wilson group is ahead.
The Wilson group is ahead.
Image 5 from gallery
Image 6 from gallery
A trail junction, view back the way we came.
A trail junction, view back the way we came.
The Navajo Lake Trail enters the forest a couple of times, but it's mostly through meadows.
The Navajo Lake Trail enters the forest a couple of times, but it's mostly through meadows.
View back at our progress along the Navajo Lake Trail.
View back at our progress along the Navajo Lake Trail.
The trail suddenly starts to ascend more steeply up some switchbacks. Another shot back as we ascend up to Navajo Lake.
The trail suddenly starts to ascend more steeply up some switchbacks. Another shot back as we ascend up to Navajo Lake.
Image 11 from gallery
A short descent to reach the valley where Navajo Lake lives, which we got to after a nice forest walk.
A short descent to reach the valley where Navajo Lake lives, which we got to after a nice forest walk.
Navajo Lake. The trail continues on its left (north) side.
Navajo Lake. The trail continues on its left (north) side.
View back toward Navajo Lake.
View back toward Navajo Lake.
Ascending the well-manicured trail past Navajo Lake. The trail leads to the rim visible in the center, where the grade flattens out a bit.
Ascending the well-manicured trail past Navajo Lake. The trail leads to the rim visible in the center, where the grade flattens out a bit.
View back toward Navajo Lake.
View back toward Navajo Lake.
Just after reaching the rim mentioned earlier. Gladstone Peak visible left of center, Mount Wilson up there on the right somewhere. We left the trail around here and headed to the right.
Just after reaching the rim mentioned earlier. Gladstone Peak visible left of center, Mount Wilson up there on the right somewhere. We left the trail around here and headed to the right.
Just after leaving the trail, a view of El Diente Peak and the north buttress route to gain El Diente Peak.
Just after leaving the trail, a view of El Diente Peak and the north buttress route to gain El Diente Peak.
Close-up of the route we took, which follows the ridge just left of center in this photo.
Close-up of the route we took, which follows the ridge just left of center in this photo.
Starting off with lots of big Class 2 boulder-hopping fun.
Starting off with lots of big Class 2 boulder-hopping fun.
View back, the trail we came up on visible above Matt.
View back, the trail we came up on visible above Matt.
Very steep and loose for a fair amount of the first half.
Very steep and loose for a fair amount of the first half.
Another shot back as we carefully pick our way up the Class 2/3 talus.
Another shot back as we carefully pick our way up the Class 2/3 talus.
Wilson Peak visible top right.
Wilson Peak visible top right.
More Class 2/3. It was fun, but a little unnerving. Lots of potential for rocks to slide away.
More Class 2/3. It was fun, but a little unnerving. Lots of potential for rocks to slide away.
Another shot back, this time toward Navajo Lake.
Another shot back, this time toward Navajo Lake.
After lots of Class 2/3 scrambling, we reached the start of the extended, very committing Class 3-4 ascent of the route, which would last until the ridgeline. We initially intended to just stay on the left side of the triangle (the ridge where Matt current is), but it was too steep. We headed to the center of this photo (onto what I'll call the "triangle"), then curved left around the steep rock and ascended on Class 3 back to the ridge. It might be tempting to keep to the right side of the triangle, but it looked incredibly steep and loose and I don't recommend it.
After lots of Class 2/3 scrambling, we reached the start of the extended, very committing Class 3-4 ascent of the route, which would last until the ridgeline. We initially intended to just stay on the left side of the triangle (the ridge where Matt current is), but it was too steep. We headed to the center of this photo (onto what I'll call the "triangle"), then curved left around the steep rock and ascended on Class 3 back to the ridge. It might be tempting to keep to the right side of the triangle, but it looked incredibly steep and loose and I don't recommend it.
Class 3 move to gain the base of the triangle and then we wrapped around back to the ridge (the left side of the triangle).
Class 3 move to gain the base of the triangle and then we wrapped around back to the ridge (the left side of the triangle).
Once at the base of the triangle, we headed up and curved left, regaining the ridge. Class 3+ move here.
Once at the base of the triangle, we headed up and curved left, regaining the ridge. Class 3+ move here.
Now back on the triangle's left side, a view back as Matt starts up a Class 3+ move. The wide shot from below (2 photos ago) of the triangle was taken from the hump visible in the center of this photo.
Now back on the triangle's left side, a view back as Matt starts up a Class 3+ move. The wide shot from below (2 photos ago) of the triangle was taken from the hump visible in the center of this photo.
Wide shot of Matt on the Class 3+ move, Wilson Peak visible top right.
Wide shot of Matt on the Class 3+ move, Wilson Peak visible top right.
More Class 3 fun for a while after clearing the triangle.
More Class 3 fun for a while after clearing the triangle.
Getting more steep, and now narrow.
Getting more steep, and now narrow.
A look back at the Class 3/3+ narrow, steep talus.
A look back at the Class 3/3+ narrow, steep talus.
Very steep, but fun Class 3.
Very steep, but fun Class 3.
A look back. We spent more than an hour in this spot looking for a route. Basically just stay along the ridgeline as best you can. Our mistake was to drop to the left onto sketchy terrain, but we retraced our steps and were able to find the route, which sticks to the ridge crest. At the very end of the ridgeline, there's a short drop (next photo), which dropped us down to a small saddle and rest spot.
A look back. We spent more than an hour in this spot looking for a route. Basically just stay along the ridgeline as best you can. Our mistake was to drop to the left onto sketchy terrain, but we retraced our steps and were able to find the route, which sticks to the ridge crest. At the very end of the ridgeline, there's a short drop (next photo), which dropped us down to a small saddle and rest spot.
Look back at the short drop and saddle where we hung out to catch our breath for a bit.
Look back at the short drop and saddle where we hung out to catch our breath for a bit.
Just past the saddle, a view at the route to come. This is where the serious Class 4 came in. 14ers.com writes that continuing straight up results in some loose Class 4 gullies, so we took user "KeithK" advice and instead ascended to the center of this photo, then wrapped around the rock rib on the center right (covered in algae).
Just past the saddle, a view at the route to come. This is where the serious Class 4 came in. 14ers.com writes that continuing straight up results in some loose Class 4 gullies, so we took user "KeithK" advice and instead ascended to the center of this photo, then wrapped around the rock rib on the center right (covered in algae).
A couple of Class 4 moves got us here. You can see the short drop and saddle we rested at on the left. We are now above the algae-covered rock rib mentioned earlier. The rock was generally very solid, otherwise I honestly would have turned back.
A couple of Class 4 moves got us here. You can see the short drop and saddle we rested at on the left. We are now above the algae-covered rock rib mentioned earlier. The rock was generally very solid, otherwise I honestly would have turned back.
More Class 4, now more exposed. There were massive handholds, but a 20 foot drop behind us, that soon became a 50 foot drop as we ascended.
More Class 4, now more exposed. There were massive handholds, but a 20 foot drop behind us, that soon became a 50 foot drop as we ascended.
Exposed Class 4. We were moving slowly and deliberately.
Exposed Class 4. We were moving slowly and deliberately.
View back toward the saddle we rested at in the center. Now we're 50+ feet off the deck and lots of committing Class 4 moves from there. We didn't want to turn back.
View back toward the saddle we rested at in the center. Now we're 50+ feet off the deck and lots of committing Class 4 moves from there. We didn't want to turn back.
The route became a bit more safe, the Class 3/4 moves using tight chimneys with solid rock and less exposed. I would say the point where we left the saddle to gain the ridgeline required 4-5 Class 4 moves and otherwise was consistently Class 3. It took us about a half hour to make sure we were on a reasonable route and to make the moves to gain the ridge.
The route became a bit more safe, the Class 3/4 moves using tight chimneys with solid rock and less exposed. I would say the point where we left the saddle to gain the ridgeline required 4-5 Class 4 moves and otherwise was consistently Class 3. It took us about a half hour to make sure we were on a reasonable route and to make the moves to gain the ridge.
Ah, the summit ridge. This is a view looking west. We came up on the right somewhere. El Diente is right behind me.
Ah, the summit ridge. This is a view looking west. We came up on the right somewhere. El Diente is right behind me.
El Diente Peak ahead.
El Diente Peak ahead.
We began the traverse. A social trail leads around the left side of the ridge.
We began the traverse. A social trail leads around the left side of the ridge.
View back toward El Diente as we begin the traverse.
View back toward El Diente as we begin the traverse.
A view of the full traverse. The route swaps to the right side of the ridgeline, avoiding the sketchy stuff visible on the left.
A view of the full traverse. The route swaps to the right side of the ridgeline, avoiding the sketchy stuff visible on the left.
Now on the right side of the ridge, where we'll stay for a while.
Now on the right side of the ridge, where we'll stay for a while.
View back toward El Diente Peak and our descent from it.
View back toward El Diente Peak and our descent from it.
The traverse to come. We mostly stuck just right of the ridgeline, ample cairns marking the way.
The traverse to come. We mostly stuck just right of the ridgeline, ample cairns marking the way.
Approaching the first Class 3+ move. Rather than ascend over the scary-looking spire, we kept to its right side and used some fun blocky holds.
Approaching the first Class 3+ move. Rather than ascend over the scary-looking spire, we kept to its right side and used some fun blocky holds.
View back toward El Diente as we start on the fun Class 3+.
View back toward El Diente as we start on the fun Class 3+.
Blocky Class 3+ fun. It's a bit exposed, but the holds are awesome.
Blocky Class 3+ fun. It's a bit exposed, but the holds are awesome.
More Class 2/3 navigation around the scary spire.
More Class 2/3 navigation around the scary spire.
Class 2/3.
Class 2/3.
Now past the spire and continuing along the right, keeping to the right of the ridgeline (plenty of cairns) on what normally would be horrible terrain, but has now been worn by enough feet that there is basically a trail.
Now past the spire and continuing along the right, keeping to the right of the ridgeline (plenty of cairns) on what normally would be horrible terrain, but has now been worn by enough feet that there is basically a trail.
View back toward the spire (above Matt) as we continue just below the ridgeline. El Diente visible in the distance.
View back toward the spire (above Matt) as we continue just below the ridgeline. El Diente visible in the distance.
We gained the ridgeline, view back toward El Diente. Navajo Lake is obscured on the right.
We gained the ridgeline, view back toward El Diente. Navajo Lake is obscured on the right.
After a short section of easy ridge talus, we got to a viewpoint of the classic Class 4 headwall. It requires heading up the lighter-colored section of rock left of center in this photo. First was a somewhat sketchy descent to reach the saddle below.
After a short section of easy ridge talus, we got to a viewpoint of the classic Class 4 headwall. It requires heading up the lighter-colored section of rock left of center in this photo. First was a somewhat sketchy descent to reach the saddle below.
Somewhat sketchy Class 3 down-climb to reach the saddle.
Somewhat sketchy Class 3 down-climb to reach the saddle.
At the saddle, view up toward the Class 4 moves on the headwall.
At the saddle, view up toward the Class 4 moves on the headwall.
View down toward Matt as he starts up the fun Class 4 headwall. The holds are all solid. It's really not bad at all. We descended from the ridge on the top right in this photo.
View down toward Matt as he starts up the fun Class 4 headwall. The holds are all solid. It's really not bad at all. We descended from the ridge on the top right in this photo.
Close-up of Matt.
Close-up of Matt.
Matt continuing on Class 4 to regain the ridgeline. There are plenty of Class 3/4 options to get to the ridge once you clear the main headwall section.
Matt continuing on Class 4 to regain the ridgeline. There are plenty of Class 3/4 options to get to the ridge once you clear the main headwall section.
Back on the ridge, view back the way we came. El Diente visible top center. The saddle just before the headwall visible on the left.
Back on the ridge, view back the way we came. El Diente visible top center. The saddle just before the headwall visible on the left.
And now for the short, fun, exposed Class 3+ knife-edge. I say Class 3+ because the moves were straightforward, but a fall would be deadly.
And now for the short, fun, exposed Class 3+ knife-edge. I say Class 3+ because the moves were straightforward, but a fall would be deadly.
Along the narrow ridgeline.
Along the narrow ridgeline.
View back along the ridge.
View back along the ridge.
Matt pulling one of the last few move along the narrow ridgeline.
Matt pulling one of the last few move along the narrow ridgeline.
Once past the narrow ridgeline, there were still a couple of tricky Class 3/4 downclimbs with a bit of exposure.
Once past the narrow ridgeline, there were still a couple of tricky Class 3/4 downclimbs with a bit of exposure.
View back at one of the sketchy downclimbs.
View back at one of the sketchy downclimbs.
More ridge traversing as we descend to the base of Mount Wilson.
More ridge traversing as we descend to the base of Mount Wilson.
Another sketchy downclimb. Just past this section we kept to the left of the ridgeline, avoiding horrifying rock.
Another sketchy downclimb. Just past this section we kept to the left of the ridgeline, avoiding horrifying rock.
Looking back toward the sketchy downclimb and subsequent traverse around the scary ridge on loose terrain.
Looking back toward the sketchy downclimb and subsequent traverse around the scary ridge on loose terrain.
Ah, finally, the base of Mount Wilson. We ascended to the notch in the center of this photo.
Ah, finally, the base of Mount Wilson. We ascended to the notch in the center of this photo.
At the notch, Class 2. At the notch is where the traverse merges with the standard Mount Wilson north route.
At the notch, Class 2. At the notch is where the traverse merges with the standard Mount Wilson north route.
Matt starting up the final set of Class 3/4 moves to the summit of Mount Wilson. It's short-lived and the summit is basically right ahead of Matt. I HIGHLY recommend you just ascend via the ridge (standard route) and not do the nonsense we did in the next two photos. I didn't get any shots of the standard Class 4 moves, so check elsewhere online for those. In hindsight, we should have just done the moves since what we did was way more scary.
Matt starting up the final set of Class 3/4 moves to the summit of Mount Wilson. It's short-lived and the summit is basically right ahead of Matt. I HIGHLY recommend you just ascend via the ridge (standard route) and not do the nonsense we did in the next two photos. I didn't get any shots of the standard Class 4 moves, so check elsewhere online for those. In hindsight, we should have just done the moves since what we did was way more scary.
Not recommended: we wrapped around to the east face of Mount Wilson and ascended this. While a little less exposed, it was insanely steep and loose and I wasn't happy.
Not recommended: we wrapped around to the east face of Mount Wilson and ascended this. While a little less exposed, it was insanely steep and loose and I wasn't happy.
Not recommended: View back as we finish up ascending via the east face and pull a Class 4 move to gain the summit.
Not recommended: View back as we finish up ascending via the east face and pull a Class 4 move to gain the summit.
Mount Wilson summit, view north toward Wilson Peak. The standard route would have come up from the ridge on the left in this photo. Our descent route heads down into the basin in the center of this photo.
Mount Wilson summit, view north toward Wilson Peak. The standard route would have come up from the ridge on the left in this photo. Our descent route heads down into the basin in the center of this photo.
Mount Wilson summit, view back along the ridge to El Diente Peak. Kilpacker Basin is visible on the left (the southern approach) and Navajo Lake is visible slightly on the right (our approach).
Mount Wilson summit, view back along the ridge to El Diente Peak. Kilpacker Basin is visible on the left (the southern approach) and Navajo Lake is visible slightly on the right (our approach).
Close-up of the traverse.
Close-up of the traverse.
Close-up toward Liard Head (left) and the San Juans stretching forever.
Close-up toward Liard Head (left) and the San Juans stretching forever.
Not recommended: a shot of Matt descending our ascent route. We are so dumb.
Not recommended: a shot of Matt descending our ascent route. We are so dumb.
Once down from Mount Wilson, we headed down the standard northern route. We first traversed to the right, just below the ridgeline. Don't head straight down, it's steep and loose.
Once down from Mount Wilson, we headed down the standard northern route. We first traversed to the right, just below the ridgeline. Don't head straight down, it's steep and loose.
View back toward Mount Wilson as we traverse just below the ridgeline.
View back toward Mount Wilson as we traverse just below the ridgeline.
Making progress on the way down.
Making progress on the way down.
Another shot back at the endless talus.
Another shot back at the endless talus.
Close-up of the talus field. Our goal is the green/red hump in the center, where the talus fades away and a social trail emerges.
Close-up of the talus field. Our goal is the green/red hump in the center, where the talus fades away and a social trail emerges.
View back up as we near the social trail.
View back up as we near the social trail.
Joined the social trail! Cairns helped lead back to the main trail.
Joined the social trail! Cairns helped lead back to the main trail.
At the social trail, view toward our descent valley, Navajo Lake down there somewhere.
At the social trail, view toward our descent valley, Navajo Lake down there somewhere.
Some nice lighting on our way back to the car.
Some nice lighting on our way back to the car.

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