Class 4 6.6 miles 2100 gain 4-6 hrs Loop May 7, 2023
Effort
Beauty
Personality
Solitude

Eagle Crags GPX Track

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Eagle Crags is among the first iconic features visitors see on the way into Zion National Park, an inspiring set of pinnacles overlooking Springdale UT. Being outside the park means it gets little visitation, so the Eagle Crags Trail mostly trafficked by locals. Yoshi and I didn't have any information about the summit of Eagle Crags West (the high point), only a short description of the route to Eagle Crags East. Knowing that zero online reports for such a prominent spire likely means it's extremely difficult, we decided to give it a go. Unfortunately, a spoiler that there was no way we'd be reaching the high point, so this route describes our ascent for Eagle Crags East. Though if you're a trad climber and you want to give the high point a go, the approach described here is viable. The drive to the Eagle Crags Trailhead was fine except for a few very rutted sections impassable without decent clearance. For a road so regularly used by the area's residents, we were suprised at its poor condition. There are signs along the road reading "no parking" before it deteriorates, so if you can't make it to the trailhead expect to walk an extra few miles each way to avoid parking illegally.

We started south along the Eagle Crags Trail, the summit pinnacles visible ahead. The trail descends slightly through wooded terrain, far more well-maintained than we thought it would be. While this trail travels through far less epic scenery than the immersive Zion landscape, the views improved as we started ascending and we found it has a unique perspective toward the south side of the park, Johnson Mountain and Mount Kinesava the first summits visible in the distance. After a couple of miles the trail began to ascend more steeply, making use of a couple of switchbacks leading to the eastern shoulder of Eagle Crags. You may note a more direct western line on my attached map: this was our descent, and it's brushy and steep, so I don't recommend going that way especially since such a lovely trail exists.

The east shoulder of Eagle Crags marks the end of the official Eagle Crags Trail. The trail began to descend south from here, but it led away from where we wanted to go. I'll note that although it was no longer officially maintained past this point, the trail still looked to be in decent shape. Leaving the Eagle Crags Trail, we took a social trail that ascended further, hoping it would take us where we wanted to go. Above, we noted a prominent named tower called Mrs. Butterworth (also known as Tooele Tower). This is an important feature to recognize because as of writing this report, it's the only tower up here with climbing information available that we could find. We wouldn't be reaching its incredible pinnacle today, but it served as a great landmark to get our bearings. It's also the reason for the existence of the social trail we were using.

As we left the official Eagle Crags Trail behind, the social trail leading to Mrs. Butterworth steepened significantly, introducing some Class 2 on this dirty ascent, where we immediately became aware helmets would have been a nice idea. We got to a point where the trail became less clear, though maybe we just missed a turn. Whatever the case, we ascended on a steep and loose Class 2+/3 slope, taking turns to prevent knocking each other out with a loose rock. This segment only lasted a hundred feet or so, and then we were back on some sort of social trail, cairns leading us directly to the base of Mrs. Butterworth.

Mrs. Butterworth is an impressive sight from its base, certainly much larger than it looked from farther below. We continued on its north side using a rocky Class 2 slope, cairns indicating we were still on some sort of route. As the torso of Mrs. Butterworth inched toward eye-level, a series of fun Class 3 moves up a small boulder field brought us to the base of a severe-looking sandstone outcropping. We explored higher up and found a bolted route, but I left this mishap out of my map. It was clear we had gone too high. Instead, we located a steep, sandy slope that brought us down and around this substantial rock outcropping. We meandered around the base of Eagle Crag East's vertical northern face through steep and sometimes brushy terrain, animal trails helping slightly. Eventually we were able to use a clump of boulders to ascend to the west side of Eagle Crags East (Class 3). It was about this point Yoshi and I looked up at the taller Eagle Crags West and laughed at our silly plans to try to reach its summit. From this angle, it looked nearly impossible. We decided we would save our legs and not attempt a route up since even its base was riddled with significant cliffs and the day was hot.

A bit disillusioned with our plans for the day after realizing our primary goal was a no-go, we continued toward Eagle Crags East. As it turns out, this summit would introduce a bit of adrenaline after all. The first couple of hundred feet along the ridge was comprised of Class 2/3 boulder-hopping with a light use trail. The route became a bit more blocky higher up, and we kept more or less to the ridge crest to avoid the quickly steepening faces on either side. We reached the base of the summit block, and Yoshi toyed around on an extremely exposed ledge on the left that made my palms sweaty. His foot slipped a little. I kept my mouth shut to not cause him anxiety. I was sure he was going to back off it, but I guess after a long hiatus from adventuring he was excited for some danger. Pulling a Class 3/4 move, he reported it wasn't too bad. I told him I wouldn't be going that way and would look around for a less potentially death-inducing option. Just above me was a 15-foot flat, vertical face with a crack splitting it, located directly next to a perpendicular wall. I was able to manuever up this feature and squeeze myself into the wider, upper portion of the crack. It was Class 4 and less exposed, so I just took my time as I tend to do, feeling out each move and making sure I could downclimb it later. In hindsight, it's a very cool crux and far less dangerous than Yoshi's choice. In fact, he preferred to use this option on the way down later. Once above the Class 4 crux, a slanted bit of Class 2 led to a 2+/3 move to gain the summit block. Since this dinky peak had given us a little trouble, our fantasy of going for Eagle Crags West was even more laughable.

We backtracked from the summit, down the ridge, and continued to the saddle separating the Eagle Crags. From here we decided to take what seems to be the "standard" route back, a steep and brushy undertaking. We'd originally thought this would be our ascent, but were very happy we decided against it earlier. Watching for snakes, we picked our way north around brush and sporadic rock outcroppings. You'll notice our route wiggles quite a bit, the result of the many little obstacles we had to avoid on this descent. After 1200' of steep slope descending, we made it back to the Eagle Crags Trail.

PEAKS ON HIKE
Elevation (ft) / Prominence (ft)
Peaks on hike
Elevation
Prominence
1
Eagle Crags, East
6140 ft
240 rise

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At the trailhead, Yoshi inspecting the kiosk. We thought it odd it mentioned the multi-pitch route up Mrs. Butterworth. Eagle Crags seen on the left.
At the trailhead, Yoshi inspecting the kiosk. We thought it odd it mentioned the multi-pitch route up Mrs. Butterworth. Eagle Crags seen on the left.
Along the Eagle Crags Trail, which descends a short time. You can see Eagle Crags East and Mrs. Butterworth poking out to the left of the much more formidable-looking Eagle Crags West.
Along the Eagle Crags Trail, which descends a short time. You can see Eagle Crags East and Mrs. Butterworth poking out to the left of the much more formidable-looking Eagle Crags West.
Progress along the Eagle Crags Trail, Zion seen on the left.
Progress along the Eagle Crags Trail, Zion seen on the left.
Getting closer to the spires.
Getting closer to the spires.
Mrs. Butterworth and Eagle Crags East seen center.
Mrs. Butterworth and Eagle Crags East seen center.
Trees Ranch Reservoir seen below, and the mouth of Parunuweap Canyon behind it.
Trees Ranch Reservoir seen below, and the mouth of Parunuweap Canyon behind it.
Reaching the base of the spires, the Eagle Crags Trail becomes a bit more steep as it switchbacks up to the should seen on the left.
Reaching the base of the spires, the Eagle Crags Trail becomes a bit more steep as it switchbacks up to the should seen on the left.
Yoshi stopping to smell the flowers.
Yoshi stopping to smell the flowers.
Johnson Mountain, The West Temple, etc. seen at the mouth of Zion Canyon.
Johnson Mountain, The West Temple, etc. seen at the mouth of Zion Canyon.
The trail continues along the east side of Mrs. Butterworth.
The trail continues along the east side of Mrs. Butterworth.
A social trail leads up toward Mrs. Butterworth, seen ahead.
A social trail leads up toward Mrs. Butterworth, seen ahead.
Steep Class 2.
Steep Class 2.
View back down at the social trail.
View back down at the social trail.
Class 2/3 up the slope along the social trail.
Class 2/3 up the slope along the social trail.
Then we lost the trail and just ascended for 100 feet or so to reach the base of Mrs. Butterworth.
Then we lost the trail and just ascended for 100 feet or so to reach the base of Mrs. Butterworth.
Steep Class 2/3.
Steep Class 2/3.
Mrs. Butterworth on the left.
Mrs. Butterworth on the left.
Ascending next to Mrs. butterworth.
Ascending next to Mrs. butterworth.
View back toward Mrs. Butterworth.
View back toward Mrs. Butterworth.
Fun Class 3 boulders.
Fun Class 3 boulders.
A shot back toward Mrs. Butterworth before we drop away from the now-craggy and scary terrain.
A shot back toward Mrs. Butterworth before we drop away from the now-craggy and scary terrain.
Class 2 along the base of the cliffs.
Class 2 along the base of the cliffs.
View back at Yoshi wrapping around the cliffs.
View back at Yoshi wrapping around the cliffs.
Animal trails and brush as we wrap around the base of Eagle Crags East.
Animal trails and brush as we wrap around the base of Eagle Crags East.
Eagle Crags West comes into view. No thanks.
Eagle Crags West comes into view. No thanks.
Class 2/3 up to the ridge.
Class 2/3 up to the ridge.
Class 2/3 along the west ridge of Eagle Crags East.
Class 2/3 along the west ridge of Eagle Crags East.
View back at Yoshi coming up the ridge.
View back at Yoshi coming up the ridge.
Wider shot, Eagle Crags West behind. The saddle separating the two Crags seen center left.
Wider shot, Eagle Crags West behind. The saddle separating the two Crags seen center left.
The summit block. Yoshi ascended using a wildly exposed Class 3/4 move up to the little tree on the left.
The summit block. Yoshi ascended using a wildly exposed Class 3/4 move up to the little tree on the left.
Yoshi on his dumb choice.
Yoshi on his dumb choice.
I had him pose for a shot on what I consider a fun and less dangerous option, Class 4.
I had him pose for a shot on what I consider a fun and less dangerous option, Class 4.
View down at the Class 4 move.
View down at the Class 4 move.
Yoshi on the summit of Eagle Crags East.
Yoshi on the summit of Eagle Crags East.
Eagle Crags East, view northeast.
Eagle Crags East, view northeast.
Back at the saddle, we headed north through brush.
Back at the saddle, we headed north through brush.
View back toward the saddle and Eagle Crags West.
View back toward the saddle and Eagle Crags West.
We avoided a bunch of little outcroppings and brushy clusters.
We avoided a bunch of little outcroppings and brushy clusters.
Steep descent back to the Eagle Crags Trail.
Steep descent back to the Eagle Crags Trail.
View back up at the cool pinnacles.
View back up at the cool pinnacles.

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Hire/refer me as a web developer or send me a few bucks if you find my site useful. I’m not sponsored, so all fees are out-of-pocket and my time preparing trip reports is unpaid. I really appreciate it!