Courthouse Butte in Coconino National Forest, AZ

Hike Courthouse Butte Coconino National Forest, AZ

Class 5 3.4 miles 1300 gain 2-4 hrs Out + Back Apr 16, 2022
Effort
Beauty
Personality
Solitude

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Courthouse Butte is a majestic feature outside of Sedona AZ, situated just east of the popular Bell Rock. The summit has some impressive views, but really the route is what I find to be the highlight of this peak. A series of ledges and gullies wrap around the southern face until finally reaching the wide top of the butte. Our group met up to use this as a nice half-day peak before starting our AZ adventures over the next few days. We set out from the busy trailhead and used a developed trail system to reach the southern face of Courthouse Butte. The sheer walls were impressive and a route seemed unlikely when viewed from below.

From the base we located a social trail leading into a Class 2 gully. At the top of the gully, a hairpin turn led to the right along a really cool ledge, which hugged the base of the cliff face. This led into another gully, this one darker and longer. At the top of this gully a similar hairpin turn led up to a Class 2+ move on some big roots and then onto another pleasant ledge. The ledge wrapped around, passing the foundation of some old ruins, and continued north into a wide amphitheater-like feature. We stayed along the ledge until we reached the farthest northern part of the amphitheater, where Class 2 bushwhacking and boulder-hopping got us to a Class 3 short slab and up to a higher ledge. This slanted ledge wrapped us to the east and to the base of the crux of the route.

We looked up at a fixed line dangling above. Fortunately someone had left this, or the technical climb that would have ensued would have forced us to turn back. Quite exposed, a series of vertical moves were bypassed by using this rope. Don't assume the rope will always be there, and it may degrade and be insufficient for use in the future. The route seems popular enough that it may get replaced before that point, though. The crux is characterized by a 30 foot blocky face leading to a small ledge suitable to hold us all, followed by a (bolted) 15-foot vertical section and ultimately to a couple of bolts where the fixed line was anchored. The exposure to the left on the way up was a little unnerving, and we chose to play it safe on the descent later on by rappelling on the ropes we brought with us rather than hand-lining the fixed rope.

Once past the crux we scrambled up a final unexposed Class 4 move, and continued on the Class 2 slope to gain the summit.

PEAKS ON HIKE
Elevation (ft) / Prominence (ft)
Peaks on hike
Elevation
Prominence
1
Courthouse Butte
5451 ft
971 rise

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Starting from the trailhead toward Courthouse Butte, seen ahead.
Starting from the trailhead toward Courthouse Butte, seen ahead.
Approaching the base of Courthouse Butte, where a social trail leads up to the gully left of center in this photo.
Approaching the base of Courthouse Butte, where a social trail leads up to the gully left of center in this photo.
Ascending the first gully, Class 2.
Ascending the first gully, Class 2.
View back down the first gully.
View back down the first gully.
Above the first gully, a ledge leads east.
Above the first gully, a ledge leads east.
Wrapping around beneath the sheer cliff.
Wrapping around beneath the sheer cliff.
The ledge led to the gully seen on the right.
The ledge led to the gully seen on the right.
View back down the second gully, Class 2.
View back down the second gully, Class 2.
Second gully on the right, hairpin turn leads along the ledge seen center.
Second gully on the right, hairpin turn leads along the ledge seen center.
A view of Bell Rock (center) once above the second gully (seen bottom left).
A view of Bell Rock (center) once above the second gully (seen bottom left).
Approaching a Class 2+ move on some roots within the short chute seen center.
Approaching a Class 2+ move on some roots within the short chute seen center.
Above the Class 2+ roots, more ledge walking.
Above the Class 2+ roots, more ledge walking.
The ledge wraps around into a large amphitheater-like feature. The route heads up the slope seen center. The crux is visible top right.
The ledge wraps around into a large amphitheater-like feature. The route heads up the slope seen center. The crux is visible top right.
A quick stop at the base of some ruins.
A quick stop at the base of some ruins.
View back toward the ledge we were on in the previous photo (center), as we ascend the Class 2 brushy slope.
View back toward the ledge we were on in the previous photo (center), as we ascend the Class 2 brushy slope.
At the top of the slope, along another ledge. We came up from the right in this photo.
At the top of the slope, along another ledge. We came up from the right in this photo.
View along the ledge.
View along the ledge.
Farther along the ledge, view back toward the brushy slope we came up (center).
Farther along the ledge, view back toward the brushy slope we came up (center).
Along the sloped ledge, Class 2/3.
Along the sloped ledge, Class 2/3.
The ledge leads to the crux, seen here. We were fortunate there was a fixed line in place.
The ledge leads to the crux, seen here. We were fortunate there was a fixed line in place.
Josh starting up the first portion, pretty vertical.
Josh starting up the first portion, pretty vertical.
View down the first part.
View down the first part.
Amber on the second part, more vertical. There was a bolt, I assume helpful in case the fixed line isn't here. We are all standing on the small ledge separating the two parts of the crux.
Amber on the second part, more vertical. There was a bolt, I assume helpful in case the fixed line isn't here. We are all standing on the small ledge separating the two parts of the crux.
View down at Shawn coming up the second part.
View down at Shawn coming up the second part.
Josh coming up the last bit of the crux. You can see the ledge we were on earlier in the center of this photo.
Josh coming up the last bit of the crux. You can see the ledge we were on earlier in the center of this photo.
Class 4 move past the crux.
Class 4 move past the crux.
Class 2 to the summit.
Class 2 to the summit.
View down the slope on our way to Courthouse Butte's summit.
View down the slope on our way to Courthouse Butte's summit.
Courthouse Butte's summit ahead. Class 2/3 to get up its little protective cliff band.
Courthouse Butte's summit ahead. Class 2/3 to get up its little protective cliff band.
Courthouse Butte summit, view west toward the way we came.
Courthouse Butte summit, view west toward the way we came.
Courthouse Butte summit, view north.
Courthouse Butte summit, view north.
Courthouse Butte summit, view east.
Courthouse Butte summit, view east.
Rappelling down the crux.
Rappelling down the crux.

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Hire/refer me as a web developer or send me a few bucks if you find my site useful. I’m not sponsored, so all fees are out-of-pocket and my time preparing trip reports is unpaid. I really appreciate it!