Chocolate Top and Northern Black Mountains Traverse in Death Valley National Park, CA

Hike Chocolate Top and Northern Black Mountains Traverse Death Valley National Park, CA

Class 2 12.3 miles 5400 gain 6-8 hrs Loop Mar 30, 2023
Effort
Beauty
Personality
Solitude

Chocolate Top and Northern Black Mountains Traverse GPX Track

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I was informed recently by separate parties that an "Area Closed" sign has been placed at the start of the dirt road I drove in on. My understanding is that there is an active mine nearby and the washes at the base of Chocolate Top are private property. You'll need to access these peaks from either about three miles south of where I parked, or a couple miles north.

The Black Mountains of Death Valley National Park are mostly known for the Artist's Palette Scenic Drive and Dante's View, but aside from the trail to Mount Perry, few hikers explore the range's crest. A few years ago we checked out Blue Mountain and Artist's Palette Peak, which ranks among my favorite desert hikes. The landscape was so colorful and unique and very rarely visited, so I wondered what the ridgeline would look like between there and Mount Perry. Finally, today I had the time to check it out. This traverse takes the grandeur and views of Mount Perry and combines it with the colors of the northern portion of the Black Mountains to form possibly a perfect combination of desert delights.

The eastern slope of this traverse is riddled with private mining property and is monitored by the Ryan camp. I found a small spur road that avoids all of this and allowed me to ascend via a nice wash. To get here, leave pavement (36.33433, -116.68909) and follow a good dirt road a short time to an Area Closed sign. I headed west through the wash, which ascended for a bit before dropping into another wash. The alluvial fans cause some weird and confusing overlapping drainages, as was the case here. I continued through this major drainage, only one Class 2+ lip over a small cliff band serving as an obstacle. I decided to climb out of the drainage just past a short section of narrows when it seemed the ridges were growing steep and escaping later would be more difficult.

Once on my chosen spur ridge/slope, I ascended on alternating flattish terrain and steep Class 2 as I made my way up toward my first summit, Peak 5488. Along the way I was already pretty overwhelmed by the colorful humps to the north. A final steep Class 2 slope brought me to the peak, where I got some pretty excellent views toward Mount Perry and down into Death Valley below.

Peak 5270 was next, reached via a steep descent followed by a steep ascent, nothing exceeding Class 2. On the way up to Peak 5270, I mostly made an ascending traverse to the right in order to avoid an extended rock outcropping. The summit was a wide lump with an excellent view toward the currently snow-capped Telescope Peak. I continued north, a very gradual slope descending to the saddle with Red and White Mountain. I wasn't prepared for how gorgeous this section of the hike would be. Impossibly steep, eroded cliffs lined the western slopes of the Black Mountains, forming an epic amphitheater-like feature. From this vantage point I could see layer upon layer of muted colors, reaching all the way from the valley floor up to the summit of Red and White Mountain. It was even better that as I was descending the ridge narrowed a bit and I had an unobstructed view toward the beauty. I took my time until it started snowing on me and the wind picked up.

At the northern base of Peak 5270, I started up to a sub-peak of Red and White Mountain, an annoying bump with steep Class 2 and some rock outcroppings I needed to take care to avoid. More amazing views from this sub-peak, and all the way over to Red and White Mountain. The cliffs were particularly stunning when looking back the way I came, as well as down toward the nearly-vertical canyons that formed the amphitheater. Red and White Mountain has a minor false summit, and then a straightforward hike up to the true high point. Red and White Mountain's summit was also pretty astounding. I could now see the colors that comprise the northern reaches of the Black Mountains, as well as down into the Artist's Palette viewing area far below.

It was a steep and significant descent of almost a thousand vertical loss from Red and White Mountain to the saddle with Chocolate Top Mountain, still not exceeding Class 2. Chocolate Top was a much tamer ascent, the view back toward the traverse continuing to be very cool. I paused on Chocolate Top Mountain's summit longer than I normally do in order to take in the views to the north, realizing I'd finished much of the Black Mountains' ridgeline and explored its magic and mystery, so I just wanted to take it in. I could see all the way to Red Cathedral and beyond into Death Valley, as well as south back toward the wildly striped Red and White Mountain.

I decided my best descent option would be to backtrack slightly and use an adjacent ridge located south of Chocolate Top Mountain. I didn't descend from Chocolate Top Mountain directly because its ridge would lead me away from my loop route, and I'd have to regain vertical to get back on track. However, the ridge I chose instead was rocky and steep, so I'm not sure which option would have been better. Regardless, Class 2 on less than ideal terrain got me to the base of my next peak, Peak 4040.

Class 2/2+ brought me up steep, loose terrain to an animal trail and ultimately the summit, where I got similar views back toward Chocolate Top Mountain, but at a much lower elevation. I was spolied enough already and just kept descending, taking the easternmost ridge from Peak 4040 on overall very pleasant terrain. The final couple hundred feet to get down to the desert floor was much more steep than anticipated, but still no more than Class 2+. In order to avoid the private property, I traversed the desert and rejoined my ascent route wash from earlier, completing my loop.

PEAKS ON HIKE
Elevation (ft) / Prominence (ft)
Peaks on hike
Elevation
Prominence
1
Peak 5488
5488 ft
288 rise
2
Peak 5270
5270 ft
310 rise
3
Red and White Mountain
5023 ft
343 rise
4
Chocolate Top Mountain
4615 ft
415 rise
5
Peak 4040
4040 ft
320 rise

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Starting from the Closed Area sign, heading up the wash on the right.
Starting from the Closed Area sign, heading up the wash on the right.
View toward Ryan.
View toward Ryan.
View back as I ascend the wash, Pyramid Peak seen top center.
View back as I ascend the wash, Pyramid Peak seen top center.
Ascending within the major wash.
Ascending within the major wash.
Some cool narrows.
Some cool narrows.
A Class 2/2+ lip move.
A Class 2/2+ lip move.
A short section of narrows. I climbed out of the wash after this to gain the slope seen top right.
A short section of narrows. I climbed out of the wash after this to gain the slope seen top right.
Now on the slope, heading up toward the peaks. My first peak, Peak 5488 seen top left.
Now on the slope, heading up toward the peaks. My first peak, Peak 5488 seen top left.
View back as I head up the slope.
View back as I head up the slope.
It's usually a steep slope, but with occasional Class 2 rockiness.
It's usually a steep slope, but with occasional Class 2 rockiness.
Another shot back at my progress. I came up from the wash seen center.
Another shot back at my progress. I came up from the wash seen center.
Continuing to ascend, Peak 5488 seen top center.
Continuing to ascend, Peak 5488 seen top center.
Crazy colors on the slopes to the north.
Crazy colors on the slopes to the north.
Progress up the now more colorful slope/ridge.
Progress up the now more colorful slope/ridge.
Peak 5488 ahead.
Peak 5488 ahead.
A view back, now higher up. The wash I started in is seen right of center.
A view back, now higher up. The wash I started in is seen right of center.
Peak 5488 seen left, Peak 5270 on the right.
Peak 5488 seen left, Peak 5270 on the right.
An animal trail part of the way.
An animal trail part of the way.
View back at some of the cool colors on the way up.
View back at some of the cool colors on the way up.
Approaching the final Class 2 steep ascent to Peak 5488.
Approaching the final Class 2 steep ascent to Peak 5488.
Class 2.
Class 2.
View back down as I make my way up Peak 5488.
View back down as I make my way up Peak 5488.
Final bit to Peak 5488, the ridgeline leading to Mount Perry becoming visible on the left.
Final bit to Peak 5488, the ridgeline leading to Mount Perry becoming visible on the left.
Peak 5488 summit, view south toward Mount Perry.
Peak 5488 summit, view south toward Mount Perry.
Close-up south.
Close-up south.
Onward to Peak 5270.
Onward to Peak 5270.
Steep descent from Peak 5488 and up to Peak 5270.
Steep descent from Peak 5488 and up to Peak 5270.
View back up at the descent from Peak 5488.
View back up at the descent from Peak 5488.
At the saddle, view down into Death Valley. I loved the colorful eroded canyons here.
At the saddle, view down into Death Valley. I loved the colorful eroded canyons here.
Onward to Peak 5270. I made an ascending traverse to the right to avoid the outcropping ahead.
Onward to Peak 5270. I made an ascending traverse to the right to avoid the outcropping ahead.
View back toward Peak 5488.
View back toward Peak 5488.
Class 2 up to Peak 5270.
Class 2 up to Peak 5270.
Peak 5270 summit, view back along the ridgeline. Peak 5488 seen top left.
Peak 5270 summit, view back along the ridgeline. Peak 5488 seen top left.
A close-up down toward the Natura Bridge Trailhead.
A close-up down toward the Natura Bridge Trailhead.
Onward down the gradual slope from Peak 5270.
Onward down the gradual slope from Peak 5270.
Holy moly, the views!
Holy moly, the views!
It started snowing.
It started snowing.
Close-up of the colorful face, snow clouding the colors a bit.
Close-up of the colorful face, snow clouding the colors a bit.
Farther down the slope. Red and White Mountain seen left. I had to first go up and over the sub-peak on the right.
Farther down the slope. Red and White Mountain seen left. I had to first go up and over the sub-peak on the right.
At the saddle, heading up the sub peak on Class 2.
At the saddle, heading up the sub peak on Class 2.
View back at the pleasant, gradual descent from Peak 5270.
View back at the pleasant, gradual descent from Peak 5270.
Class 2 up the sub-peak.
Class 2 up the sub-peak.
View back toward the saddle and some crazy colors.
View back toward the saddle and some crazy colors.
Sub peak, view toward Red and White Mountain.
Sub peak, view toward Red and White Mountain.
A close-up int the wild amphitheater-like formation.
A close-up int the wild amphitheater-like formation.
View back toward the sub-peak and Peak 5270.
View back toward the sub-peak and Peak 5270.
Just below Red and White Mountain, another shot back.
Just below Red and White Mountain, another shot back.
Close-up at the sub-peak I hiked over (left) and Peak 5270.
Close-up at the sub-peak I hiked over (left) and Peak 5270.
Red and White Mountain seen ahead.
Red and White Mountain seen ahead.
Red and White Mountain summit, view toward the traverse to Chocolate Top Mountain.
Red and White Mountain summit, view toward the traverse to Chocolate Top Mountain.
A close-up toward Chocolate Top Mountain (right) and the chaos of the western slope of the Black Mountains.
A close-up toward Chocolate Top Mountain (right) and the chaos of the western slope of the Black Mountains.
Telescope Peak covered in snow across Death Valley.
Telescope Peak covered in snow across Death Valley.
More amazing colors. Chocolate Top Mountain seen center.
More amazing colors. Chocolate Top Mountain seen center.
View back up at the steep descent from Red and White Mountain.
View back up at the steep descent from Red and White Mountain.
Still descending to the saddle with Chocolate Top Mountain.
Still descending to the saddle with Chocolate Top Mountain.
View back toward Red and White Mountain as I start up Chocolate Top Mountain.
View back toward Red and White Mountain as I start up Chocolate Top Mountain.
Progress up Chocolate Top Mountain.
Progress up Chocolate Top Mountain.
Shot back toward Red and White Mountain.
Shot back toward Red and White Mountain.
Red and White Mountain.
Red and White Mountain.
Final bit to Chocolate Top Mountain.
Final bit to Chocolate Top Mountain.
Chocolate Top Mountain ahead.
Chocolate Top Mountain ahead.
Chocolate Top Mountain summit, view north.
Chocolate Top Mountain summit, view north.
Close-up north.
Close-up north.
Chocolate Top Mountain summit, view south toward the traverse.
Chocolate Top Mountain summit, view south toward the traverse.
I backtracked off the summit a bit and descended an adjacent ridge.
I backtracked off the summit a bit and descended an adjacent ridge.
Peak 4040 seen center ahead. It was a bit of a steep and loose descent.
Peak 4040 seen center ahead. It was a bit of a steep and loose descent.
Approaching Peak 4040.
Approaching Peak 4040.
Class 2/2+ up the loose slope.
Class 2/2+ up the loose slope.
View back, Chocolate Top Mountain seen top right. Red and White Mountain top left. I descended via the ridge in the center. I don't know if it was better than coming directly down from Chocolate Top Mountain.
View back, Chocolate Top Mountain seen top right. Red and White Mountain top left. I descended via the ridge in the center. I don't know if it was better than coming directly down from Chocolate Top Mountain.
Peak 4040 summit, view north.
Peak 4040 summit, view north.
I continued descending from Peak 4040. A deep mine seen on the left. Ryan right of center.
I continued descending from Peak 4040. A deep mine seen on the left. Ryan right of center.
Progress down the ridge/slope.
Progress down the ridge/slope.
The last couple hundred feet became steeper to reach the wash below.
The last couple hundred feet became steeper to reach the wash below.
Within the wash, view toward the ridge I came down (right of center) and hints of the traverse seen above. I headed through the desert to rejoin with the wash I hiked in on.
Within the wash, view toward the ridge I came down (right of center) and hints of the traverse seen above. I headed through the desert to rejoin with the wash I hiked in on.

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