Big Point via Whipple Trail in Dixie National Forest, UT

Hike Big Point via Whipple Trail Dixie National Forest, UT

Class 1 20.2 miles 4500 gain 7-10 hrs Out + Back Jun 16, 2024
Effort
Beauty
Personality
Solitude

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Located deep within the forested slopes of Utah's Pine Valley Mountains, Big Point is a summit seen prominently from I-15 but is rarely summited. While there's an extensive trail system that reaches the base of Big Point, the hike is long from any direction. The West Valley Fire of 2018 burned much of the range north of the peak, so I was a bit concerned I'd have to contend with poor conditions. To eliminate as much post-fire aggravation potential as I could, I decided to approach via the well-maintained Whipple Trail.

I paid the entrance fee for the Pine Valley Recreation Area and parked at the Whipple Trailhead. The trail briefly follows the Middle Fork of the Santa Clara River before ascending a slope via numerous switchbacks into the Pine Valley Mountain Wilderness. I got some nice views down into Pine Valley along the way, as well as toward the rocky southern face of Gardner Peak. Even though the majority of this hike is forested, there are plenty of lookout points toward the cool rock formations on adjacent slopes throughout.

Shortly after reaching the top of the initial slope switchbacks, I started descended briefly into a wide gully labeled on maps as Hop Canyon. Gorgeous, large slabby rock pinnacles were visible during the descent in and ascent out of this canyon. Continuing east, the trail gradually ascends deeper into the range, with more cool rock formations dotting the slopes along the Santa Clara River drainage to the north.

The Whipple Trail then descends again, now into its namesake of Whipple Valley, where I picked up the Summit Trail at a junction. Emerging from the forest into the surprisingly gorgeous meadow full of greenery and wildlife, my eyes lit up. The trail wraps around Whipple Valley's western perimeter, following a small stream as it continues north through a narrower stretch of meadows. Wonderful rock features began poking out of the grasses as the Summit Trail progressed, culminating at the stunning, wide-open North Whipple Valley. Clusters of these rock pinnacles made this an incredibly unique area that I totally didn't expect.

A prominent spur trail leading east incorrectly tempted me out of the meadow, but the correct Summit Trail instead leads around the eastern fringe of the meadow. It disappears briefly and cairns mark the route, but this was the point I started getting concerned about the trail's quality. Fortunately it has received maintenance, and except for a few downed trees the remainder of my time along the Summit Trail was in great shape.

The trail ascended through the forest, which continued to house large rock pinnacles jutting out of the ground, and up through a new-growth aspen grove until reaching the eastern ridge of Peak 9943. This unnamed summit was clearly affected by the burn area, but since the trail nearly reaches its summit I couldn't skip this short add-on peak. I hopped over tons of deadfall and reached both of the two potential high points, finding the northern one likely taller. The views were minimal, so I made my way back to the trail.

The Summit Trail descends a couple hundred feet from Peak 9943 toward the saddle with Big Point, nearly the entirety of the unnamed peak's prominence, and this would have to be reascended later on the way back. On the way down, I passed a signed lookout point, where I received my first true look at Big Point's beautiful face and the eastern dropoff of the Pine Valley Mountains. I chose a spot to leave the comfort of the Summit Trail since it continued north and away from Big Point, heading through the forest and up the southern ridge of Big Point.

Somehow the ridgeline ascent was very tame, despite clearly being burned. There just weren't enough trees here to create post-fire havoc, so I merrily made my way to the summit. The slope angle was a bit steep at times and occasional new-growth patches of aspens slowed me down a little, but the views back to the south on the way up easily compensated for any minor annoyances. Plus, the cool rock formations to the north surrounding White Rocks Reservoir and Timber Mountain were neat. The summit views from Big Point were obscured by trees, but a large rock offered a small lookout window.

PEAKS ON HIKE
Elevation (ft) / Prominence (ft)
Peaks on hike
Elevation
Prominence
1
Peak 9943
9943 ft
343 rise
2
Big Point
10024 ft
984 rise

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Starting from the Whipple Trailhead. The trail only briefly follows the Middle Fork of the Santa Clara River.
Starting from the Whipple Trailhead. The trail only briefly follows the Middle Fork of the Santa Clara River.
Entering Pine Valley Mountain Wilderness.
Entering Pine Valley Mountain Wilderness.
The slope view is often obscured by trees, but there are plenty of lookout points.
The slope view is often obscured by trees, but there are plenty of lookout points.
Wide switchbacks along the Whipple Trail.
Wide switchbacks along the Whipple Trail.
Higher up, view north toward Gardner Peak.
Higher up, view north toward Gardner Peak.
The Whipple Trail is pretty along the initial few wide switchbacks, nice views below.
The Whipple Trail is pretty along the initial few wide switchbacks, nice views below.
Image 6 from gallery
View back as I near the top of the initial set of switchbacks.
View back as I near the top of the initial set of switchbacks.
The Whipple Trail enters the forest.
The Whipple Trail enters the forest.
And then descends a bit into Hop Canyon.
And then descends a bit into Hop Canyon.
Crossing a stream within Hop Canyon.
Crossing a stream within Hop Canyon.
Now ascending out of Hop Canyon to the east.
Now ascending out of Hop Canyon to the east.
View back into Hop Canyon at some pretty rock formations.
View back into Hop Canyon at some pretty rock formations.
Another shot back toward the way I came from.
Another shot back toward the way I came from.
Onward east along the Whipple Trail, views north-ish toward the Santa Clara River drainange.
Onward east along the Whipple Trail, views north-ish toward the Santa Clara River drainange.
Another shot back. The Whipple Trail came up from the saddle seen right of center.
Another shot back. The Whipple Trail came up from the saddle seen right of center.
Ascending into the forest.
Ascending into the forest.
A final shot back before entering the forest again.
A final shot back before entering the forest again.
Descending into Whipple Valley.
Descending into Whipple Valley.
Junction, keep left.
Junction, keep left.
Entering the gorgeous meadows of Whipple Valley.
Entering the gorgeous meadows of Whipple Valley.
Bog crossing within Whipple Valley.
Bog crossing within Whipple Valley.
View back. Cool rock outcroppings poke out everywhere.
View back. Cool rock outcroppings poke out everywhere.
Onward toward North Whipple Valley.
Onward toward North Whipple Valley.
View back.
View back.
The trail follows a small stream.
The trail follows a small stream.
Approaching North Whipple Valley.
Approaching North Whipple Valley.
Cool formations in North Valley.
Cool formations in North Valley.
The trail gets totally lost for a moment, but it skirts the east side of North Valley. Don't let a spur trail lead the wrong way.
The trail gets totally lost for a moment, but it skirts the east side of North Valley. Don't let a spur trail lead the wrong way.
View back into North Valley.
View back into North Valley.
Back through the forest.
Back through the forest.
More cool rock formations jutting out of the forest.
More cool rock formations jutting out of the forest.
So cool.
So cool.
Ascending through the forest, with some switchbacks.
Ascending through the forest, with some switchbacks.
Eventually after some forest walking, I reached the east ridge of Peak 9943, clearly heavily affected by the fire.
Eventually after some forest walking, I reached the east ridge of Peak 9943, clearly heavily affected by the fire.
One of two possible summits of Peak 9943.
One of two possible summits of Peak 9943.
Descent from Peak 9943 toward the saddle with Big Point.
Descent from Peak 9943 toward the saddle with Big Point.
A nice view on the way down, marked and named with a sign.
A nice view on the way down, marked and named with a sign.
Through the forest along the trail, leaving it to access Big Point.
Through the forest along the trail, leaving it to access Big Point.
At the saddle before starting up to Big Point, seen ahead.
At the saddle before starting up to Big Point, seen ahead.
Big Point has a cool-looking eroded southern face.
Big Point has a cool-looking eroded southern face.
Along the ridgeline.
Along the ridgeline.
View back at my progress along the ridgeline, initially very little brush.
View back at my progress along the ridgeline, initially very little brush.
The crest was the least brushy option, I found.
The crest was the least brushy option, I found.
Farther along, the summit seen just ahead.
Farther along, the summit seen just ahead.
Just below the summit, looking back.
Just below the summit, looking back.
Summit of Big Point, view south.
Summit of Big Point, view south.
Summit of Big Point, view northeast.
Summit of Big Point, view northeast.
Summit of Big Point, view northwest toward the cool rock formations surrounding White Rocks Reservoir and Timber Mountain.
Summit of Big Point, view northwest toward the cool rock formations surrounding White Rocks Reservoir and Timber Mountain.

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Hire/refer me as a web developer or send me a few bucks if you find my site useful. I’m not sponsored, so all fees are out-of-pocket and my time preparing trip reports is unpaid. I really appreciate it!